I don't know how to explain the 44 VAC you have posted except that your multi-meter may be a bit "off". Briggs specs for the 9 amp regulated charging system is given as 40 VAC max at 3,600 RPM. Otherwise, the performance of the charging components is right where it should be and if you had run the engine longer the amp rate would have probably decreased even a bit more as the battery attained a more complete charge. The tests on the clutch (if done correctly) are the best proof of condition you can have. As I stated in a previous post, I do not know WHERE the snubber diode is situated (physically). I do know that most automotive circuits where a large coil of wire is employed in electromagnetic tasks.........a snubber diode is usually included to shunt the self-induced voltage spike that occurs when the power to the coil is turned off, harmlessly to ground. I also know that diodes fail in different ways when subjected to current values higher than their capacity, especially when they are faced with a really large surge of inverse voltage where the amp load is also of a high value. Sometimes a diode will simply become OPEN, and if it is a PTO snubber diode in the spotlight, the most obvious problem you would notice would be your tractor might begin eating PTO switches like popcorn. Or.......the diode might transform into a shorted (or semi-shorted) condition..........and this could lead to blowing fuses. BUT..................you seem to have stated that the fuse will continue to blow with the PTO clutch DISCONNECTED. That (to me) implies that any shorted snubber diode would have to be in the wiring on the CHASSIS side of the PTO clutch wiring (if in fact a shorted snubber diode is causing this. If the snubber diode is integral to the PTO clutch......unplugging the clutch wiring would isolate that and the fuse blowing should stop. You haven't done anything like replacing wires or splices on the tractor, have you?? Can you physically trace the path of the black wire referred to as connecting with a screw to the regulator mounting? Your budget must be highly organized if you know you will have to sacrifice "a date" in order to afford a buying new clutch. :^) HEY FORUM ADMINISTRATORS! Could we get some "smilies" added to the forum tools please?? This post was edited by mownie on Sat, Jun 15, 13 at 11:24

The fuel leaking out of the pump vent is not normal, but may not be related to your stuttering problem. Have you checked to see if any fuel is leaking at other times, or only when your problem shows itself? Make absolutely certain that the fuel you see is not leaking where the hose leading to the carb connects to the pump, and running down to appear that it is coming from the pump vent. Stuttering and stalling when operating on slopes is most often caused by a defective condition in the seat switch and/or switch mounting. The first clue to look for in the scenario of a seat switch defect causing this is to pay attention to just how long it takes for the stuttering to begin after you start a pass in the right slope state. If the stuttering begins as soon as you get onto the right hand slope, its nearly certain the seat switch is the culprit. If it takes 30 seconds or longer for this to happen, it might not be a seat switch issue. If the seat switch is mounted on the right side of the seat, that side of the seat will get lighter when the operator leans or shifts their weight to the left when on the slope. Especially likely when the seat hinges have significant wear which permits greater movement of the seat. To test this you can try adjusting the switch so the arm or plunger gets more positive pressure against it and then mow. You might also try to test this by deliberately shifting your weight and body position to the left side of seat while mowing on flat ground. If it can be confirmed that the seat switch IS NOT causing the stuttering, then we will need to explore the possibility that the carb float level may be too low or that some type of solid debris (gravels??) is present in the fuel tank that obstructs the fuel supply hose on right hand slopes.

Some tractors don't have a fuel pump on the engine because the tank is high enough that gravity provides enough fuel "pressure" to fill the carb. On these types, a leaking carb needle & seat can allow fuel to flow through the carb (while in storage) and eventually all drain through into the crankcase. This results in the "oil" level being excessively high (and VERY thin) which can result in excessive smoke. Tomplum's suggestion about a possible blown head gasket is also very good. As the engine has to work harder, more exhaust bypasses into the crankcase, "pressurizing it" which can force oil out wherever it can get out. A relatively simple test. Have a rag handy. Remove the valve cover- Start engine and observe the gasket area next to the push rods. IF the gasket is blown, you'll see a "mist" pulsing out. The head gasket area next to the push rods is where it most often blows because the gasket has the least support. You might go to the Briggs website and download the IPL for your engine. It has exploded views and you can see the area I'm talking about. IF you look at the tractors Owners Manual, it lists the engine model# in the back in the parts section. This post was edited by bill_kapaun on Mon, Sep 1, 14 at 12:43

You already HAVE tested the seat switch! When you stated that it runs until you engage the PTO or let up on the clutch. The seat switch is not working, so the safety switch logic is that the seat is not occupied when the PTO is engaged or the clutch is let up. Neither of those actions can be done if the seat is not occupied. Even before you engage the PTO or let up on the clutch, the seat switch is telling the safety interlock system that the seat is not occupied, but it does not stop the engine because it is OK for the engine to run with an empty seat so long as the clutch/brake is down, and the PTO is not engaged. Nothing more needs to be tested, you already tested it.