My new 54' Husqvarna is awful
clarkgw72
16 years ago
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broke_not
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Husqvarna LGT26K54
Comments (5)About the only thing a person can do once they are stuck with one of these light hearted hydros is to change the oil in the tranny about every 200 hours of service (based on 50 hours per season usage). Though these units typically (nowadays anyhow) DO NOT have an oil drain plug (per se)....................it is feasible to remove the entire transaxle assembly and flip it upside down over a suitable catch pan and let it drain for a few days or a week. The oil is the COMPONENT that fails first, and I guess it is fortunate that it does present some obvious operational problems that simply can't be overlooked (or ignored) before the REAL, and expensive damage to the metal components commences. Hydrostatic drive devices function on hydraulic and hydrodynamic principles. Because of the great amount of heat (and pressure) that is generated during these hydraulic processes, the oil is subjected to conditions that are very similar what happens inside an engine, maybe worse in some respects. The oil loses its "additive package" and anti foaming qualities which normally make the oil behave at high temperatures. Once the oil's additives are depleted, the oil will begin to "foam" (aerate) and this aeration absolutely stifles the hydraulic properties of the oil and essentially the oil becomes useless as a hydraulic medium. Furthermore, because the oil now has entrained air (and oxygen), the very high temperatures that are generated at a microscopic scale inside the hydraulic pump and hydraulic motor can support actual COMBUSTION of trace amounts of oil..............which cause more degradation of the oil. The other often neglected aspect of hydrostatic drives is the "cooling system". Typically, the ONLY cooling system provided for hydrostats in in yard/garden tractors is a fan mounted atop the tranny input pulley to wash air down across the trans case. When grass and other debris is allowed to accumulate on top of the case, it acts exactly like insulation in the attic of your house and permits the heat to rise a lot higher than it would if the fan could do its job. Check for debris build up each time you get ready to use the tractor and if you see ANY clippings or leaves.......blow them away with with your leak blower or compressed air....See MoreHusqvarna LGT2654: satisfied customer
Comments (7)I'm not the best to give you a view of the cutting. The stuff I mowed looked mostly like hay. It's not a developed lawn. The really tall stuff didn't do as well as the 10" or so, but I think that's because the mower pushed it down and it didn't pop up enough for the 4" cut height to whack it until I had driven past. Shouldn't be an issue for the second mowing I don't think....See MoreTire Size for JD 425 AWS?
Comments (6)ngslc, I found a thread on a different forum by doing a Yahoo search "John Deere AWS 425 tire size" search. In the thread, a poster said that he had replaced the 23" std. rears with 26" ag lug tires and "the fit under the fenders was tight". But the poster also indicated he had these tires mounted on wider than std. wheels also. (wider wheels can result in slightly lower overall diameter than with narrow stock wheel). You will probably want to find a tire to fit your stock wheels that has a larger diameter instead of going all out with new wheels and tires. Anyhow, I'm going to guess that 26" is probably the max you will will get under the fender without mods to the fenders. Remember, 3" taller tire increases your ground clearance by roughly 1 & 1/2". Hopefully some other forum members who have "been there-done that" will post some specific brands and sizes to help you decide....See Morehusqvarna 22-54 charging system eratic
Comments (9)On this series engine, that configuration indicates the 10 or 16 Amp charging system (10 or 16 depending on flywheel magnet size). The first thing to check on this system when "irregularities" in charging output happen is to make certain that the regulator mounting screw is sound and tight. To check for "soundness" requires that the screw be physically removed so you can check for signs of corrosion that may have formed where the screw touches the regulator and the engine. You also must check that the engine mounting bolts are sound and tight. If the engine mounting bolts serve as the only electrical connection between the engine block and the frame, looseness in those bolts can cause several issues, including possible no crank and charging system fluctuations. You also need to check for loose fit or corrosion where the red wire of the regulator connects to the chassis harness wire. Another point to check for trouble is loose fit or corrosion at the key switch terminals and connector body. Also inspect each rivet that fastens the key switch terminals to the key switch rear plate. These rivets often are ignored or overlooked when trouble shooting. Check those things and get back to us. If further checking is needed we will go from there....See Moreclarkgw72
16 years agohortsense
16 years agoScott Kenney
7 years agossewalk1
7 years agoScott Kenney
7 years agossewalk1
7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
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