First things I would do would be make sure the (blade Switch is in the off position, all the connections (both Pos and neg) are clean and getting good contact, meaning starting at the battery following cables all the way to the frame and starter (remove clean and reconnect). Sounds like grounding problem to me or I mean not grounding problem which could reduce the amps from the battery to the starter.

Besides cleaning the cables TO the starter, clean the connections from the engine BACK to the battery.
Make sure engine bolts are tight, since the engine has to be tight to the frame to ensure good contact.

What happens if you jumper 12V to the small terminal of the solenoid?

"What happens if you jumper 12V to the small terminal of the solenoid?"

Ditto and don't forget to clean the connection of ground cable to frame.

Walt Conner

I had not tried jumping to the solenoid. Not quit sure which post your referring to as both posts are the same sized with two smaller terminals for white and black wire

One of the smaller terminals is ground and one is your 12V supply from the key switch to energize the solenoid. That one, "probably" white.

Thanks for the insight. I checked the voltage on the battery and it reads 12.5. I also jumped from the battery to the starter solenoid. It also cranked over. I noticed the key was in the off position, does that matter?

The key just delivers 12V to the small terminal in the START position.
Key OFF means it won't start, since you don't have spark.

Also, the carb fuel solenoid (if equipped) won't be activated, so no fuel to the engine.

Saftey switches are just like light switch? either on or off. so if your off the seat the switch would be in the off position. Utilizing your wiring diagram it should show the switch in the correct position in relation with the key position on the diagram.

So if you want to check switch say the seat switch with your butt not on the seat the switch should show no continuity meaning the switch is in the open position or OFF position. Now set on the seat and check the switch, it should be in the closed position meaning showing continuity a lowing the circuit to be completed. Or some could be wired opposite Closing making ground to kill the engine again your wiring diagram will show which way it wired?

Depending on the model of your tractor you should have at least two other safety switches in the system Blade switch so the tractor won't start unless the blade switch in in the OFF position. Brake pedal switch so it won't start unless the brake is applied.

Again these are basic on and off switches and can easily be tested with multi-meter if you know how to test circuits for continuity, know where the switches are located, and can read wiring diagram.

But IMO you need to MAKE sure the battery cables (ALL OF them) are tight, free from corrosion (as mentioned ESPECIALLY the Neg. side all the way to the frame.

Another thing just cause the battery has 12 volts don't mean it has the ampere required, Dead battery will most likely read 12V (cause there is NO load being applied to the plates) this is why Load test (applying Load across plates in battery) required to determine if battery has enough Ampree (the power to crank any giving engine) to say it good or passed the load test.

This post was edited by rcmoser on Sat, Apr 19, 14 at 8:34