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L102 Lawn tractor won't start

15 years ago

Hi all ...

Just started mowing this past weekend. After completing the job, I tried to start my L102 to roll it into the garage, and it wouldn't start. Heard the starter solenoid "click", saw 12.75 volts on the starter side of the solenoid but starter won't turn over.

Just in case, jumped from the positive side of the battery to the starter ... doesn't turn ... no sound at all. Sounds like I need a new starter (tractor has only 50 hours). Wanted to check with the knowledgeable folks on the forum.

Anyone know how much is a new starter runs? Is JD the only place I can get one?

Thanks much.

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Comments (4)

davidandkasie
15 years ago
you can get a new one at any dealer that services Briggs engines. it sounds like maybe the solenoid went out on it. you could pull teh starter and take it in for testing just to verify before buying a new one. most shops won't charge to check one.

also, if it went back to working after cooling off, definitely time for a new one or a rebuild of that starter.
tomplum
15 years ago
It would be more likely that the battery itself or a connection isn't good. Start by cleaning both ends of both battery cables and securing tightly. If still no go, have the battery load tested. Online look up is available with the engine #s if you need to source a starter. Just a note- by jumping from the + to the starter lug- even if you are sure you've got a good connection, you haven't eliminated a possible ground issue. Be sure that you can also turn your engine by hand via the pulley or cooling screen.
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Bill, I think he'd be lots better off if he took it to a repair shop! Some folks are not "cut out" to be mechanics, and had best leave experimentation to some repair shop! And, what changed the compression? Could it have been a dead or low battery? HMMM?? Or, do valves unscrew their adjustment bolts when you store them away for the winter, or any time? Ahh, yes, so many problems, so many cures, so many questions! If folks would just go back thru the files here, they'd probably find answers to just about everything. Rusty
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Seat switch connector has a built in "shorting bar" which will close the kill circuit when the connector is unplugged from the switch. Unplugging the connector from the switch gives the same results as if the seat is not occupied. Seat switch is just one switch in the safety interlock circuitry that can cause the engine to have no spark. The brake pedal interlock switch is actually 2 switches in one assembly. One of the brake switches is dedicated to starter inhibition, and the other switch is to kill spark and stop the engine. The PTO switch also has a circuit dedicated to the kill wire. You can disconnect the kill wire from the magneto to see if that restores spark. If doing that restores spark, something is grounding the kill wire somewhere. Could be a chafed wire.
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With the new solenoid and a new key switch that pretty much leaves the PTO switch and the brake/clutch switch to test. You can test the white wires at the clutch/brake switch for the presence of 12 volts while the key is held in the start position and the PTO switch is in the engaged (blades ON) position and the clutch.brake pedal in the up position. With the PTO switch and the brake/clutch switch set as described...........only one white wire at the brake/clutch switch should be showing 12 volts (while key is in start position). If you do have 12 volts on 1 white wire at clutch/brake switch, press and hold the brake/clutch pedal down and check the other white wire for 12 volts. If no 12 volts, clutch/brake switch is defective. If you do have 12 volts on both white wires, the trouble is in the wiring that leads from the clutch/brake switch to the starter solenoid. If neither white wire at clutch/brake switch is showing 12 volts, you need to back track to the PTO switch and check the white wires on it. At the PTO switch, with the key in the start position, and PTO switch engaged as before, BOTH white wires should show 12 volts. If only 1 white wire shows 12 volts, defective PTO switch. If neither white wire on PTO switch shows 12 volts, the trouble is in the white wire between the key switch and the PTO switch.
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A couple possibilities. That's a Briggs OHV engine. IF the valves get out of adjustment, the compression release doesn't function. OR, you simply have a bad connection in the cranking circuit. Clean the ends of all battery cables. make sure engine mounting bolts are tight. The ground side is just as important as the "hot" side. Then there's the possibility your battery has reached the end of its life. Charge & get it load tested to be sure. A bad solenoid is also a possibility. This post was edited by bill_kapaun on Sat, Nov 8, 14 at 22:34
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walt2002
15 years ago
"Be sure that you can also turn your engine by hand via the pulley or cooling screen."

That is what I would do the first thing.

"Sounds like I need a new starter "

Wouldn't jump into that too quickly.

Walt Conner
rustyj14
15 years ago
Did you check the engine oil before starting it after winter storage?
Don't buy a new starter until you find out if you can turn the flywheel by hand! Check all cables, including the ground cable where it attaches to the frame, and clean up all cable connections and use new bolts in them!
And, for Pete's sake--DON"T buy a new starter from a John Deere dealer!! They will charge twice the cost of one from somebody else! And, don't buy one, any way, it probably is something else. check the fuse in the fuse holder, near the starter solenoid. Its one of those new, flat type. Better take the battery to somebody and have them give it a load test. Gas stations usually have them. But not the gas and go type of place! You'd be lucky to find somebody there that would know what you meant if you asked. Some of the auto parts stores can do the checking for you, if you bring the battery to them.
Those little tractor batteries are usually good for 2 summers. Because of the many starts they do, in normal usage. Can you get your car close enough to jump from it? (The current-not jump off it literally)

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