New apple orchard - ok to leave some mature hickory trees?
15 years ago
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- 15 years ago
- 15 years ago
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Apple orchard N and P recs. from my soil test results
Comments (16)Thank you all: The most extreme (by far) chlorosis I'm seeing is on the 9th leaf Freedom tree, the rest are 3rd - 4th leaf now. I'm such a dope for not getting pic.s of the chlorosis symptoms but here is what I (REMEMBER) seeing - the cluster leaves never show any, it begins following fruit set on the new shoots (only I think) and continues on the new growth up until about mid Summer then ceases on the new growth as it peters out, it starts up again around harvest time and remains until leaf fall. I realize this may have some scratching their heads, my observations and recollections have been sub par and may therefore not make much sense. The leaves on a shoot appear destined to remain chlorotic once they have formed and never recover. I'll do a very good job this year of observation and documentation if it kills me, this is embarrassing. Fruitnut: aint our soils just dandy! My math, for what it's worth. 2.8% = 0.028, an a.f.s. of soil = 2,000,000 lbs. therefore 0.028 x 2M = 56k lb. of lime in the a.f.s.. I was aiming for a foot deep so we'll go 56k x 2 = 112k lb., 112k / 2 = appx. 56 tons/A, one ft. deep. I haven't nailed down my S amt. yet to neutralize the lime but am re-thinking the 1 ft. depth to just 6 - 7" for the first year of additions. I've seen the same comments about hoplessness but some are colored by the economic costs associated with adding large amounts of S. I take your point about pH variability in different locations. I did look at a number of pics. and descriptions of apple Fe and Zn deficiency in leaves last year and couldn't separate the 2 looking at my tree(s) it was frustrating and I figured it wouldn't be all that hard to figure out, I was wrong! Well aware of chelated iron and may go that route, my first inclination has been to correct the soil pH and lime issues in that they can cause other problems as well. CSU (and others) recommend a green tip Zn SO4 spray for Zn deficiency, I may give that a whirl this Spring on one side of the tree and leave the rest alone, or do the whole darned tree. H-man: after further reflection over the past few days I agree that I'd best not go for altering the entire soil profile down to a foot this year, probably calculate and amend for the top 6" this Spring then sample 0 - 6" and 6 - 12" next late Fall to see what happened and go from there. If I recall, the wood chips and leaves release a fair amount of Ca when they break down too. I've gone back and forth over the foliar feeding but haven't tried it so far except a very small trial on the pear tree with Fe EDTA, it burned the leaf margins and the rate and drying conditions were correct. After that experience it soured me some. The N source for me is just a matter of getting the most pH lowering for my buck while adding the N, in retrospect, ammonium sulfate has the highest CaCO3 neutralizing effect of all the N ferts., DUH. I don't expect the miniscule amount of amm. sulfate added to my soil to get the N I need this year to pack much of a punch to the pH but it's a step in the right direction, S will have to do the real heavy lifting on neutralizing all that lime. My target pH is 6.5, no plans to go below that, no real reason to that I can think of, point taken. Man I'm starving, thanks again all. there was probably more to write but the stomach has my full attention now....See Moremature apple tree pruning
Comments (3)I cannot help you with your question. Rather, I am responding to Harvestman's response to your question. I have done a fair amount of googling looking for information on how to prune my recently acquired mature apple trees, which are the opposite of yours in terms of the amount of attention they need (my trees have never been pruned). The concept of âÂÂrenovating spursâ or âÂÂremoving weak spursâÂÂ, or wanting âÂÂuprightsâ (I thought the best branches were between 10 and 2 for strength) have not been addressed in any of the YouTube videos I have watched. I am clearly displaying my ignorance here, which is kind of the point of this post. Is there a âÂÂgo tooâ reference text I can get that will explain all of these ideas and concepts in sufficient detail for me to get the information I need to deal with my individual situation. I donâÂÂt want âÂÂpruning for dummiesâÂÂ, I can get that from you tube. I want âÂÂpruning for people that can read at at least a high school levelâÂÂ. Harvestman clearly knows what he is talking about, and although we can access his experience through this forum, it would be really great to have a really detailed reference book so we can take care of the easy stuff on our own, and hit Harvestman up with the really hard questions (not saying that your question in this post is unworthy). I am just really tired of reading online pamphlets from the University of (insert state here) Extension on how to prune apple trees. They emphasize âÂÂhowâÂÂ, at this point I am more interested in âÂÂwhyâ because that will allow me to adapt procedures and techniques to my own situation. Harvestman was getting at âÂÂwhyâ when he said âÂÂyou prune to renovate spursâÂÂ. Try googling âÂÂrenovate spursâ and see what you get (I did, you get nothing related to orchards). So, I donâÂÂt want to highjack this thread into a debate on pruning books, but it may help us all to see what people think is the best text to help thomis out with his issue, and maybe a lot of us with our own questions....See MoreNeed help with spacing new dwarf apples trees
Comments (7)Two years ago, I planted a row of apples on G11/B16/B9 (also from Cummins). I used 5 foot spacing and am pretty happy so far. One thing I would warn is to leave extra room in any spots you forsee yourself wanting to cross frequently. I had the row running down the middle of my backyard and if it wasn't for a tree which hasn't grown well (a blessing in disguise I suppose- Winecrisp on G11), I would have to keep going to one of the ends to cross the row. From another thread, Scott answered the question as follows: "Bob, if I were to do a new apple planting where I was not trying as many varieties as possible, I would probably do dwarf or semi-dwarf at 5'-7', with ~12' between rows. I have a few trees with that effective spacing and they seem to have the best balance for where they are located in terms of ease of care and production; they are on M9 to MM106 range stocks." My planting this past spring was at 5-7'. I'm also planning another dozen apples for this spring at 5' (most being interstems and G16, with 1 each of B9/M9/G11/G65/M27)....See MoreMature Oaks and hickorys cold damaged leaves
Comments (11)The oaks are pretty well leafed out again. I so see lots of dead secondary branches though, so I guess I'll be cleaning up all summer. The hickories are still not doing really well. They are leafing out, starting at the bottom and working their way up. Hopefully they will be fine. My poor crape myrtles are badly damaged though. They are starting to leaf out along the main trunk, but it looks like at least 80% of the smaller branches are dead. I hate the look of pruned crape myrtle, but I don't have much choice at this point. It is taking a lot of time, but I am pruning one branch at a time cutting only what has to be cut so they keep more of a natural look to them. Gardenias had to be pruned back nearly to the ground to get back to live growth. Several ornamental vines are dead. My garden really got hit hard. Next winter I will be ready with sprinklers on all beds so I can coat the plants in ice if we are going to get another cold snap. The plants that I ran the sprinklers on came through the cold snap undamaged.....even hosta leaves were undamaged!! Of course I can't do that for the large trees, but maybe more of my garden can remain undamaged....See MoreRelated Professionals
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