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Ezzirah, Straw is sprayed with herbicides too. All it takes is a very minute amount of herbicide residue (perhaps as small as one part per billion) on hay, straw, in animal manure from animals that ate the contaminated hay, or compost made from contaminated ingredients to contaminate your soil. Contaminated soil will vary in how long it remains barren and for most gardeners it seems like it takes at least 3 or 4 years before they can grow anything in the garden again other than grasses or grains. The 3 to 4 years of "down time" that most people see is a much longer period than the manufacturer says their research indicates. I've linked a permaculture website that addresses herbicide contamination and the writer shows some of their own plants in soil he or she was testing for contamination, and further down the page describes how the contamination issue affected their plants. The only way to know for sure you have non-contaminated hay or straw is to get it directly from the person who grew it and make sure that it was not sprayed with any of the herbicides known to persist for long periods of time. I only get hay from people I know do not ever, ever, ever spray their fields and even then you run the risk that their next-door neighbor could have sprayed this herbicide and it could have drifted into non-sprayed area. When I buy hay from a feed store, I only buy alfalfa hay and I don't buy straw because the local suppliers cannot tell me if it was sprayed or not. Your local feed store or hay broker may or may not know if their hay or straw was sprayed. Our local feed store sometimes knows and sometimes has no idea. All the herbicides that persist in hay, straw, manure, compost and soil are sprayed to kill broad-leaved weeds in grass and grain crops, along road, railroad and utility line right-of-ways, and even on golf courses. Since alfalfa is not a grass or grain (it is a legume), it cannot be sprayed with those herbicides, so there is not a deadly herbicide residue issue with it. I used to bring in lots of mulch and soil amendments from outside our property, whether they were locally-grown hay or bagged products from a store, but almost everything I use now come from our own property because that's the only way I have of knowing I'm not contaminating my soil with herbicide residue. It takes me so much more time to mow and collect grass clippings to use as mulch than it takes to go to the feed store and buy bales of hay, but at least this way I know I'm not bringing contaminated materials onto our property. Just one bale of contaminated straw or hay or one bag of contaminated manure or compost could destroy your ability to raise non-grass, non-grain crops for years. Everyone who has this happen to them always is shocked and has that "I didn't think this ever would happen to me" attitude, and I understand that, but sadly it has happened to them and it continues to happen. In a very odd and ironic twist, the contaminated compost, manure and mulch issue has hit organic gardeners especially hard despite their efforts to avoid chemicals in the garden. That's because it tends to be organic gardeners who are adding compost and manure to their garden beds, and using hay or straw for mulch. For organic growers who are "certified organic", their certification can be yanked after they've gone to great effort and expense to get it in the first place. The herbicide contamination issue is largely ignored by the media and mostly only discussed after many gardens in one area are wiped out by herbicide contamination. I think that's because it first showed up in the beds of organic gardeners back in the early 2000s when organic gardening was not as popular or as widespread as it is now and organic gardeners still were thought of as a fringe element. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Herbicide Contamination

Hi all I got no seeds on Friday and one today from patrob So here is an updated list Wow the time has gone fast we only have 18 more days to have the seeds mailed 1 pattygrow5-HERE mostly done I am still waiting for a few 2 angelady 3 morguegirl 4 ilovefarac 5 ollierose 6 sguanzon 7 austinnhanasmom-SENT 8 jaynine-RECEIVED 9 rbrady 10 stage_rat 11 highalttransplant 12 slo_garden-RECEIVED 13 kilngod 14 conniesc-RECEIVED 15 ishareflowers-RECEIVED 16 barefootgardner12 17 agirlsgirl 18 lisam627_ohio_z6 19 patty_b-RECEIVED 20 just1morehosta-RECEIVED 21 dirtdiggin 22 joy_unspeakable 23 poisondartfrog-RECEIVED 24 patrob-RECEIVED 25 perennialfan27 26 mao_tse_mom-RECEIVED 27 sassybutterfly_2008 28 ggwrn 29 julie_mn 30 kamiljablo 31 pumkingal-RECEIVED 32 beverlysc 33 sandlapper_rose-RECEIVED 34 ruthz 35 bhnash 36 gardenmom2 37 jas_il 38 strmywthr3 39 debby_1-RECEIVED 40 kalena67 41 suecirish--RECEIVED 42 sunset_in 43 paulan70 44 smpetrou 45 sakura_komichi 46 sandysgardens 47 vikingkirken 48 drippy-RECEIVED 49 tammyinwv-RECEIVED 50 molanic 51 chemocurl 52 gmom2-6boys 53 smitties 54 proudgm_03-RECEIVED 55 ibartoo 56 rane_grow 57 esiuol 58 alwaysagarden-RECEIVED 59 jacoblily 60 micyrey-RECEIVED 61 threeshyacres 62 neohippie 63 dorisl-RECEIVED 64 deanna_in_nh 65 quiltingfox-RECEIVED 66 columbine21 67 grovespirit 68 hibiscusfan 69 luvgardening2 I keep forgeting but Thanks so much to all of the players that have sent me little gifts for hosting it is so sweet you didn't have to do that knowing you are happy with your seeds is the best gift Those bags are getting pretty fat I have to get bigger boxes to put them in LOL Patty

Here's a link that will give you lots of info on termites. It's the Louisiana State University Ag Center's website, so they talk specifically about the Formosan Subterrarean Termite. However, most of it applies to all subterranean termites (but not drywood termites). When you click on the link, you'll get a pop-up box asking for your zip code, but it's the only pop-up you'll get. If your house has a concrete foundation you should probably be more worried about cracked corners and the bath traps than the mulch. There are good pictures of both on the link I provided, so that you'll know what I'm talking about. The site says that mulch can be a problem if you put it on top of a treated termite barrier around your house because it can give the termites a bridge over the treatment. It can also be a problem against a foundation if it keeps you from seeing the termite tubes (which are not usually as large and dramatic as ones you see pictures of on the web). They recommend leaving 6 inches of your foundation showing so that you can inspect it easily for termite tubes. When you inspect your foundation, occasionally take a little spade and dig 6-10 inches down at key points (places where plumbing enters or exits your house, cracked corners, wood fence posts, wet areas, etc). Termites look like little white larva with brownish heads. They move away pretty fast, so look as you dig. It can help to dump the dirt you remove on a black plastic bag and mash the dirt around to check it. Be especially alert if you find roly polys where you dig. Note: if you've had the perimeter treated, don't follow this advice unless you plan to re-treat the areas you disturb. Now, anyone want to talk about carpenter ants?! Here is a link that might be useful: subterranean termites