Ok, the Honda GCV1600 started easily... I can't say I notice any difference over my older B&S, but I was surprised because it started on the first pull (well maybe I gave it a couple of short soft pulls to recheck the oil..another point, later). The choke is interesting, it is a manual pull to set, then when one closes the autokill bail the choke start to move to off, thus one needs to be ready to pull the rope as soon as they close the bail. The engine is also rated at "2", on a scale of 10 (10 is bad) cleanliness. So I can feel better about producing less pollution when mowing with it. Something to "feel" good about. On the oil, the manual is silent on the capacity, but the machine came with the usual short quart, I think it maybe be 1.5 pints. The suggestion is put it all in, and I'm sure many/most do. However, on putting about 3/4th of it in and checking the dip stick, I see it is full. Remains at the full mark after running for a few minutes. Of course, one is cautioned not to overfill, it is a splash lub engine. It seems like a serious error on my part or theirs, when they ship a special size oil container it should be the size needed to fill the oil tank, this protects the consumer from overfilling while guaranteeing, at least this one time, that the oil tank is full. Admittedly, it is hard to see clean oil on the plastic narrow cone shaped dip stick, but I can see it is wet to the full mark with less than the full container put in the tank. If the Honda is as good as my past B&S engines it will last until I don't need a mower any more. At my age I figure within the next 5-10 years I'm going to have to move off of the big property and take up a easier life stile in a Condo of other everything is done for you environment.

In normal mowing weather temps, they are usually a 1-2 pull starter. I find with mine in the 40 degree range, last fall's treated fuel that a few pulls can be in order. If there isn't popping as it runs up, the valves are probably working freely. VAlve sticking after storage for the winter is real common on these though. I spray through the venturi after started with carb spray or the Seafoam spray to loosen those deposits successfully. Does it seem to you like it may be flooded over somewhat after sitting? Possibly, some may still seep through the float valve w/ the fuel shut off. Really, once you get comfortable with the twisting out of the links and with the gasket positioning- the carbs are quite simple- and quite cheap too for a replacement.

Change out your spark plug. Have seen similar issues with Kawasaki engines. Would run great until you put it under load (engage the clutch) and then it would stall. Seems like it's way too simple but I've cleaned carb's, reset valve lash, and checked flywheel keys on machoines that just wanted a fresh plug. Good Luck P.S. Make sure the new plug is gapped correctly.

adkinska, no darn wonder and thank you for the obvious trouble you went to for me. That looks exactly like the schematic in my manual, and I was starting to think that, too, as it is the only way I could envision that looked like the schematic. No wonder I was confused. I don't think that's what the guy at the hardware store told me on the phone, and I watched them one time trying to fill and start it before making out a ticket. He definitely was doing it just tilting it to the side and pouring straight from the plastic container of oil. Wasn't getting anywhere with that, wouldn't start, said I got it all spilled onto the spark plug and other parts, and would have to be all cleaned out which was probably true. So to be doubly sure here, you are saying that I should tip the engine FORWARD like that (perfectly clear, just went and tried it) for BOTH filling and checking? They only had that one tiller, and I don't think they know a whole lot about it to be honest compared to the other one they sell. I will emblazon that magic number 2.7 oz in my brain and find something more exact to measure it with and fill very slowly. A baby bottle comes to mind, maybe my new measuring cup(s) has oz on it. In time, I should gain more confidence about that. What a difference a good explanation makes! First I will try what you said before bothering my son about it and hauling it back over there. You don't know how much I appreciate that! I will check if 10W 30 is the same as the SAE 30 they sold me that I've been using, knew not to put my snowblower/lawnmower oil in it from that older thread.