This is how I do it: Dry the pit for 24 hrs, then crack the seed and soak the kernel for about an hour. Then, in a sandwich bag add indoor plant potting soil and add a little bit of water---the soil should be moist but not wet. After that, place the seeds inside, and then store the bags in the fridge---you could also wrap the bags with newspaper to prevent the potting soil from spilling. Every three to four days open the bag a minute or two so the seeds would get some oxygen. If you follow this process, the seeds will germinate in less than 3 months�"they will actually root inside the bag, when this happens it means that they are ready to be planted in a pot. The seedlings should get morning sun and afternoon shade. Since the seedlings wonâÂÂt have enough time to develop they will not survive the winter, therefore, the best thing to do is to take them inside your house for the rest of winter. This is very fun project to do with the family however, the trees wonâÂÂt produce fruits identical to the parent�"true from seed; a couple years ago I planted an elberta peach seed, the seed germinated, grew into a tree then it produced fruit, but the fruit was not very good, it had a big pit with little flesh. Thus, the best thing to do is just buy a peach tree from your local Home depot. All of them are grafted (clones from the same mother tree) this guarantees that the fruit will come true to the fruit. IâÂÂm currently doing this process that I explained to you above, but this is for my breeding program. I have heirloom stone fruit seeds in the fridge; and some apricots seeds that I placed in the freezer in June have already germinated. I have some peach seeds that I hand pollinated (when they used to be flowers) with plum and apricot pollen; and plum seeds that were pollinated with peach and apricot pollen; and almond seeds (when they used to be flowers) with peach pollen.

Thanks for the tip Sandy! To answer your question... I wasn't planning on it. I actually didn't even think that I'd have any sucess at all with the whole stratification thing. I have a small fridge in my garage (you know for "cold drinks" etc. Its located in front of a west facing window, so the light thing isn't too much of a problem. Do you have any tips on feeding them? If so, when should I? Thanks again! Aly PS: why do you ask if they're for bonsai?

I do check with Clothier's data on seed germination, it is helpful. A method that I came up with myself and use for germinating seed of prairie wiildflowers and grasses is to cover the seed once it is sown with a coarser perlite rather than a peat based germ mix which seems to smother the seed. This method is used for seed that requires a covering, some seeds need to remain uncovered and exposed to light for germination. I found that Sporobolus heterolepis (Prairie Dropseed) doesn't germinate at all when lightly covered with a peat based media - I got a few to germ that were left uncovered but I get high germ when the seed is lightly and evenly covered with perlite after it is sown. This tells me that prairie species need more gas exchange or exposure to the air while at the same time being covered so the seed is protected and does not dry out. I wouldn't worry too much about your seed germinating early in the fridge, I have Dictamnus albus and eryngium sprouting now in the seed trays that are in my refrigerator - the mice kept getting them in my garage - the cold temps will keep them from growing much and they will be taken out of the fridge in late March or early April to go out into a cold greenhouse to continue growing. Keep in mind that seed that requires stratification for germination can not be hurried along with warm temps! We aren't growing marigolds or petunias here. If you see no activity after you might expect to see signs of life, keep the seed colder longer rather than warming them up - most seeds will start to sprout while still chilled and germ best while at cool temperatures. Again, good luck! I wanted to add that some varieties that require stratification do only start to 'wake up' and grow once the temps warm up, like morz8 said - but not too warm - temps in the low 60's are better than say mid 70 or 80 degrees. Try to avoid quick extremes and no need for additives like wood ash or innoculants for germination - I've never used GA-3 myself and don't really see a need for it. There is no secret incantation or method that will make this process go much faster, it is one of those things that takes time. 'Tricky' things - violet species for example - germinate for me better when they are placed in a coldframe outside because the rain and snow are washing out the germination inhibitors that keep the seed from growing at the wrong time. That is my educated guess. I remember that when I grew Callirhoe involucrata from seed the germination was very erratic, seedlings slowly germinating in an outdoor seed bed for more than three years! This post was edited by jebfarm on Sun, Dec 28, 14 at 13:58

Do American persimmon seeds need cold stratification and/or scarification? Or can they be sown fresh and kept warm? Should I sow in a pot (protected from critters) and keep it in my outdoor shed? Would that be preferable?