Correction- I think it's a 97'

Check for spark.

Simply spinning the starter by direct jumping isn't going to create a spark at the plug, so as Bill noted check for spark with the switch on.

If you get a spark then does it have fresh fuel and is the fuel shutoff opened?

Has it been stored outside uncovered?

Ok, I replaced solenoid and ignition switch and now it cranks on its own, has spark, and even starts --with starting fluid.

I took the carb off and pulled the bowl with that cheap looking clip to hold it on. there was a float-which moved freely and a flat type diapharam--more like a gasket though with a plastic jet tube and 2-3 holes around it. I blew it out with cleaner. No start still.

I'm afraid the previous owner who said it didnt run has monkey'd with the settings which will not help. Hmmm. I might just look to buy a new carb unless its $150 like the last time i did that with a mower. Any suggestions?

Yes, it is best to buy the new carb with that model.
There is a bowl kit, but I have not had too much luck with
those plastic carbs. I don't know if Tcumcman still
frequents here, but he would be the one to talk to, otherwise you need to post the model and spec numbers off of the engine.

Fish

Hi Fish, good to see ya!

Yea, looking like a good idea to just buy the carb, looks to be not too expensive.

Tecumseh Model OHV17 204603A Carb part # looks to be 380 640072

Is this something a regular repair shop would have in stock?? I dont really want to order it online and have to pay shipping and moreso wait.

This is what T-Man posted about a year ago-

"Bowl kits:

Walk-Behinds 1997 and earlier - 730235B
" " 1998 and to date - 730637A

Riders 11-13HP - 730638
Riders 15-18HP - 730639
Rider w/Twin Cyl - 730649 (2 Kits Needed)

ALL these kits RETAIL for $17.50 or thereabouts. They
are the ONLY WAY TO GO when servicing this style carb.
Quick, no guesswork, and a money maker for the repair
shop.

T-Man"

I'll pick one up today and try it, I would think a shop stocks this stay tuned

Ok, bowl kit works great! Next problem....it has sat outside for 2 years. When i start to release the clutch, it dyes--like the ignition cuts out. It sorta begins to move but its like its not getting into gear or something. Is there a 'gearbox'? or just the hydro via belt?? I should replace the belt i guess. There is also a yellow wire hanging down by the transaxle.....something to do with it cutting out????

Now I'm getting somewhere, this is what its all about since I cant own motorcycles anymore........wife is a nurse in ER, need I say more?

"Next problem....it has sat outside for 2 years."

Hope you don't have much money tied up in this machine.

Bought it for $100. I think that's good, right?

Sounds like you are about to explore the world of safety switches!
You can forget about support from Murray, but if you post as many numbers from the machine as you can, it might help someone to identify exactly what model it is and possibly come up with some schematics.

Thanks Bill

Its a 42539x18a 1997. The mower deck is off, could that have some switch hooked up to it?? I think i'm so close to getting that machine working, its hard to stop now.

"There is also a yellow wire hanging down by the transaxle."

It might have something to do with things???
Look for any obvious place to plug it in.
I think "some" transmissions have a "neutral/safety switch". If the wire is 12" long, I'd expect to see its mating connector about 11" away....

You might also make sure the drive belt has NO tension, just to make sure that's not the problem.

Deck back on, hook up safetyswitch, disengafge blade!!!!!!!!

ps MUST sit on seat on pincehs Murrays and Nomas!even out of gear with brake set

Thanks for the diagram. The seat switch was disconnected. its up and running, minus a spring that engages the PTO, which the old owner lost. I ordered it today for $2. I was out giving the kids rides on it this afternoon!! Thanks for everybody's help. hmmm, what do i work on now?