'I add MMO to the fuel ' They love MMO! One guy years ago said he was preparing his LB for the winter and ran it out of gas. He put MMO into the tank and pulled the starter to get some of it into the engine - and it started! 'Started' might be a rather loose description, but it did actually get combustion, puffing a few times and blowing quite a fog. So he accomplished exactly what he wanted in a most unexpected way. I think what actually happened is there is always some gas left in the fuel bowl when you run it out of gas. The MMO mixed with that and got the level high enough to be picked up, hence the 'starting'. I don't think one will actually get combustion on pure MMO, but there is nothing better for your OPE.

yungman, Your statement about a lean condition from a partially blocked carb causing problems is true and quite common. Usually a lean condition on a governed engine like a mower is apparent from loss of power. Slightly lean conditions may not be so apparent and can cause problems.Your assumption that it is detrimental only to 2 cycle engines is not quite true. Both 2 and 4 cycle engines are affected by lean conditions. An lean carb causes the mixture to burn much hotter just like a cutting torch burns hotter when the oxygen is increased. This heat can damage either 2 or 4 cycle engines in different ways. 2 cycle engines that are too lean can burn a hole in the piston or piston siezure can occur among other things. Four cycle engines that are too lean can burn exhaust valves and seats and possibly overheat and cause the rings to lose their tension. Your statement that people may be "out to lunch" or "doped up" is sad but true. Most of the failures that I see are caused by user neglect or abuse. Other failures that are common are what I call planned failures like ignition coils, soft metal cutting blades that wear too quickly, etc. etc. Manufacturers design acceptable failure rates into certain parts that nobody else makes. CD ignition coils are a good example. They are propritary parts that usually fail a few years out of warranty and cost about triple the money that they should. What manufacturer wouldn't want to sell a $50 ignition coil for every mower they have sold at some point in the future? Sell a million mowers and sell that many coils. What a windfall!! Motorcycle manufacturers are notorious for doing that with all kinds of cd packs, voltage regulators, pulser coils, switches, and relays. Sorry I got a little off track....

I have been debating between the two for a long time. I came to conclusion that the Mantis has the same proven gear box for years where Honda is new. Also I am using it mainly for de-thatching. The video I post below show how good the Mantis work, I just want to play it safe. I just order the Mantis with Honda engine with de-thatcher and aerator tines. Mantis have promotion. $449 for tiller, they kick in the kick stand, edger, free shipping, one year refund. Just can't refuse this. I mainly use it for de-thatching. If you have doubt of how well this little thing work for dethatching, check this out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qU7kUDcOhiU I choose Mantis over Honda FG110 because of the promotion and also the gear reduction ratio. Mantis is 42:1 vs Honda 35:1. Higher gear ratio of Mantis meaning the tines turn slower and have better torque. For de-thatching, slower turning should be better for the grass so it won't damage the grass as much. Also higher gear ratio means it won't labor the engine as much. I choose the Honda engine because the Echo is rated only at 0.9hp where as the Honda is 1.1hp. 0.9hp for the Echo engine is published by Mantis. Honda GX25 is rated 1.1hp in many documentation. I hate mixing oil. I have HC151 hedge trimmer with the same Echo engine, it is loud and harder to start. I have the Honda HHT31S trimmer and the engine is so quiet, the sound of the trim head spinning is as loud as the motor. You almost can get away without ear plug.( don't even think about it). I'll post my experience after I use it. It should be here in a week.

Information for consumption. Honda/Yamaha/Husqvarna/KTM/Suzuki/Kawasaki They all produced extremely high output 2-stroke racing engines in their off-road motorcycles, and these engines were put in some of the most grueling conditions you could imagine. Virtually ALL of them recommended 20:1 or 24:1 mix ratios. What the actual FACTORY mechanics did at racing events was very telling. Their teams (admittedly not running "stock" engines) but were running engines putting out even MORE power for the displacement class followed the same rules. 1) The higher the RPM's the engine turned the more oil they ran in the fuel. (e.g. a 125cc machine that routinely lived in the 10,000 - 13,500rpm range ran 20:1 or 24:1 -- The 250cc engines that ran between 6,500 and 9,000rpm ran 32:1 or 40:1, and the Open Class machines (251cc and up by AMA but they were all 400+cc engines, usually 465's, 490's, or 500cc) ran 50:1 or in some instances if the temps were cool and the loads light on the engine they ventured into the 70:1 range.) (2) Additionally Husqvarna did some testing in the mid 70's that was also very interesting. They put 3 identical stock engines on a dyno and ran them for several days at varying RPM and load conditions. Then both motors were torn down and inspected. The engine running CASTOR based oil had the least wear, followed by the synthetic oil, and finally the engine running standard 2-cycle oil. (3) A second test they performed was to run synthetic in 2 identical engines and one was run at 24:1, the other was run at 50:1 The engine that ran 24:1 had less piston skirt wear, and less rod bearing wear, but had the same main roller bearing wear as the engine run at 50:1. I personally ran my 125cc race bikes on synthetic Yamalube-R at 24:1 or ran Bel-Ray MC1 at 24:1 even though Bel-Ray claimed it was a 50:1 oil. The 250's I ran 32:1, and the brutal 500cc machine ran 50:1. The plug reading will tell you a lot. The insulator should be light tan in color. If it is white you are too lean, dark, black, or oily, and you are too rich. Changing the oil/gas ratio DOES affect the jetting settings so changing ratios will likely require carb adjustment. If you are fouling plugs then you have the fuel/air mixture incorrect for the gas/oil mix you are using. Manufacturers intentionally make the low rpm pilot jet on the rich side (so they start easier) and excessive idling will foul the plug. I am not sure if there is a low speed adjustment on the carb you have, but if you constantly foul plugs you may want to lean that out a bit, again the plug condition will tell you.