I would not consider a lawn mower under $400.00 with electric start. At that price level I think you should be looking at models with fewer of the advanced features and not more. My recommendation would be to spend a little more and look at the Toro Super Recycler model 20095. The SR series comes with a 5 year warranty. The 20095 is the current version. Your Toro dealer may have some of the earlier version at reduced prices.

BK - I bought a 36V Worx mower last year and have had alot of luck with it. I can get through my yard a few times without a recharge. Here is a link that might be useful: Worx WG788

my lawn mower started but it stop running after 10 minutes.....never turning over to start since...please help

Any, really. By which I mean a lithium; lead batteries, these days, are not worth it. Personally, I would recommend oversizing your battery a bit, at least. You have half an acre, which is quite large at 21,000 square feet. That's pretty demanding and may not be terribly realistic in terms of what I'm seeing, but don't consider myself an expert on mowers by any stretch of the imagination). I like to play with small electronics and circuit design* to eke out the last tiny micro-erg of power that can be made to produce a useful or interesting photon or motor-motion somewhere along the line. So my recommendation, if you do it, would be to get a mower that can do 25,000 square feet. The battery would have charge remaining (and be quite large and, one presumes, expensive) at the end of the run, which means you wouldn't have to replace it as often--because it wouldn't be drained at the end of the run so it wouldn't be running very hard. Plus, it has excess capacity, so even as it loses capacity with usage and age, you have some margin to give up before needing to replace it. Or a mower with a battery you can change out, and have two of them, each capable of mowing at least 12,000 square feet each. Or four batteries, each capable of mowing 6,000 square feet... The reasoning is how lithium batteries--and other batteries, but we're worried about lithium here--work, and how capacity drops over time. Which is by wear and age. The more wear and the more age, the more capacity drops. Age you can't change, but you can reduce wear by using a higher capacity battery so your "wear" each time is lower because you aren't using the full charge. Here's the short course. You can look up a whole heck of a lot more online. Lithium batteries, all of them, have "safe" voltages. Lithium-iron batteries are exceptionally forgiving (read: do not get explodey when you violate these, but do die faster). Lithium-manganese die a lot faster, and can get Extremely Annoyed. Lithium-ion are not typically used in these kinds of applications due to their inherent instability. Going dead is an absolute killer for lithium batteries (although Li-Fe are much more forgiving of this) to the point that some will self-destruct in a matter of days. Hence the circuitry on board, which won't let you do this and generally stops the battery usage at 5-15% charge and shuts things off. Very smart circuits change that as the battery ages, downward, to compensate for lost capacity. The battery dies faster, true, but... The more often you "full stroke" the battery instead of using a half charge or three-quarters charge instead, the lifespan also shortens (again, you approached the edge of the safe voltage). One might, for instance, get 500 full charges off a really good battery. One might get 2000 half charges. Or 100,000 one-tenth charges. Those numbers are actually relatively reasonable for a decent Li-Mn battery. Even so, age also takes its toll. Five to seven years is the outside point for any lithium. When stored, they're best stored at 50% charge (their lowest stress point). So for winter, store at this state, or as close as you can get it. Anything from 40%-80% is fine, really. Very close to full or very close to empty isn't good. And most batteries have internal circuitry that will slowly drain them down over time, so you do want some charge in there so they don't go dead. Check your manual for storage recommendations as well--sometimes, for winter, circuitry can be disconnected. Some can be winter-stored in the garage while others recommend the cellar. Lithium batts aren't cold-sensitive...but the circuitry can be! They hate extreme heat. But so does every other battery. And gas engines aren't exactly fans of heat either... * Yeah, if you've been keeping score, just throw this one on the pile. It's a long story.