I've got a Seckel with Housi and Olympic both Asians plus Bosc and Comice both Europeans grafted onto it. That works well. I like all but Housi. Be aware that Asians tend to set way too much fruit. I find them very tedious to thin. There is a mass of crowded leaves and fruit everywhere. If you learn to thin out the fruiting spurs and flower buds before fruit set it's not so bad. You probably don't need a pollinator for most Asians. If you get an Olympic I think you will be satisfied with one Asian. It has bigger, firmer fruit than most Asians. It sets well but not the excess like many. It is firmer and not as juicy as most Asians. Also often sweeter. My 20th Century and Housi Asians split in a rainy period this year and it's not the first time. Olympic didn't split. Also Bosc and Comice Europeans didn't split. They are very nice pears but didn't set until 7th leaf. Olympic sets very young like most Asians.

If you are going to get the Shinko, a good pollinator is Shinseiki. They bloom at the same time in my yard and my son-in-law's yard (both Houston). The shinko is good as long as you don't get too much rain near ripening. They will be bland with the rain.....dry periods good. Shinseiki is better in my opinion, but it needs a pollinator. Shinko fruits without a pollinator, but much more fruit with a pollinator. Shinko does get blight....I lost mine after about 8 years due to blight....it was bad that year. I replaced my shinko with Tennosui. First time fruiting last year. Was not impressed with fruit. Mine were not crisp and low flavor. Tree may still be too young. I prefer crisp pears and my favorite is Southern Queen, sweet, flavorful and crisp. I may replace my Tennosui with it's sister, Southern King if the fruit don't improve. The Akers (acres) Home pear is very good. It is excellent flavor and sweetness after a week or two off the tree. No problems with blight, but it does have rot problems. You may have to spray.....don't know about San Antone. I think the rot problem may be why it is not pushed much anymore here, but it is excellent. I pulled mine due to rot and it is a melting pear and I like crisp.

Thanks for the replies. The tree seemed quite healthy and the leaves looked great until the severe cold in early Oct. which took everything down. As I recall, it still didn't just drop the leaves but appeared to go through a more normal looking, though quick, fall shutdown. I didn't notice the damage until late December, a few weeks after we had some chilly weather bottoming out at -26. I was rather surprised by the graft when I got the tree. The graft between the two varieties was right on the central leader, about 18-24 inches up, and the rootstock graft was showing down lower. The two lower side branches are of the first variety and I pondered all summer how to make that work as the tree grew, being so low. The graft is on the diagonal and looked a little like it was covered with a light wax and there is a slight seam. Attached is a close up of the graft, which is more visible now on either side of the ribbon, running on the diagonal from top left to lower right. Anyway, if you think the top is a goner (which is my thought), I'll probably try to clip one or two of the upper branches above where the black ends as they still look to be normal and supple--they may be goners already, but I can't lose anything but a grafting attempt by trying. I can probably train one of the lower side branches upwards and when/if the tree reaches several inches in diameter, it won't look much out of shape. Here is a link that might be useful:

You might be able to try nicking and notching to regulate growth. Can someone else comment on how well this works with branches, not just buds? I'm pretty new, but I'm trying it this year... Are you familiar with apical dominance of trees? Growth is stronger on branches that are higher up and more vertically oriented, and this is regulated by inhibitory plant hormones from the top down. Notching: remove a small crescent-shaped area of bark ABOVE a bud. This stimulates that shoot's growth by interrupting inhibitory signals from the top. Nicking: a similar cut BELOW a bud to weaken growth of that shoot by restricting nutrients, which travel upwards. I got this from an excellent fruit training book, American Horticultural Society Pruning & Training (Link below). If you use the Amazon "Look Inside" feature and search for nicking and notching, you can see pictures -- the whole book is great. Now maybe someone with practical experience can comment on if this works for branches, not just buds. Here is a link that might be useful: Amazon book link: Pruning & Training