Hi eastcoaster; It does sound like the others have stated. However, If you can find any parts of the stems that are left or healthy tip cuttings that are still green and firm (not rotting), Take off any leaves that may still be on the stem. You may be able to plant the firm 2 to 3 inch lengths of the stem in a sandy or very light soiless mixture with some bottom heat and start a new plant. I don't think rooting in water is advisable for this plant. You said the stems were bent over? The stems are weak on this plant too and sometimes need staking when the top growth is full. If the stems are still firm, check the roots for rot. I would usually wait until Spring for re-potting, but this is an exception. If the roots are still healthy for the most part, remove the rotted brown ones and plant in a barely moist soil and maybe you'll be able to keep it from rotting further. If not, go back to the stem cutting. Good Luck!!!

It may not recover from the frost, but if you want to try, cut off all the dead or damaged leaves. Cut the brown stalks down as far as you have to until the center of the stalk looks firm and healthy and alive, not brown. Repot ASAP as these roots do not like to be soggy - remove all old soil gently and use a fresh, well-drained soilless potting mix. Water until a little comes out the drainage holes, then don't water again until the top of the pot is dry to the touch. If it lives, it will not grow new leaves where the old ones were, it will just grow up from the existing top of the plant. Good luck!

Wow lots of interesting stuff here! I think there are multiple issues here, and, since the health of the plants isn't great, I would deal with all possible problems rather than hunt down one specific one. If it were me I would do the following, since doing them would fix any of the most likely problems that you may be having. I would change the mix to a free draining one. I would check the roots, and pot into a container that is only a little larger than the rootball. I would put them in a partially sunny position after the repot until they get used to their new mix and pot. I would then move to a sunny location once things started to settle. I would make sure the room had plenty of humidity with gravel trays or a humidity. I would make sure the room was warm, and provide bottom heat to the pots if possible. I would inspect for bugs. Mites and scale seem the most prolific - possibly mites in your case. Webbing is a telltale sign, and sometimes hard to spot, but not always present. I would treat with Toni's spray regardless (she can tell you the ingredients, or you can search previous posts.) If you do spot bugs, use Toni's spray or a suitable one for fruiting plants from a garden centre. I would water these (after the repot) only when the new medium was closer to dry than damp. In a new medium you won't have to worry so much over watering - if it is the right medium it is unlikely you will overwater unless you go nuts with it. Fertilize only very lightly until the tree is back to health, then feed with a high nitrogen feed every couple of weeks. Citrus bounce back, but they take time. These are not by any means the be all and end all of things you should do, they are merely what I personally would do :) Danny

looks like my Vintage Bordeaux by Kirchoff (1986). Depends of course if it is an evergreen . Fits the time of bloom and approximate height . Color varies some dependant on soil composition. On Tinker's it is described as black cherry , I grow in very heavy clay so it is a bit lighter than what I would call black cherry but is what I would call a dark deep wine colour . Here is a link to the pic on Tinkers http://www.daylilydb.com/?script=3.1 Signet