Hi Rose, its quite possible too much water. Here near chicago its been warm and i notice lowest leaves are similar as your description. In my case its the water coming out of watering can and or hose hitting the lowest leaves each day sometimes resting on top of soil thats doing it for me. Martin Chicago Ebay ID - Dieseler6z92 Member- Garden Web, Figs4Fun, Friends of The Fig Society

You can used the faucet (especially if you have a set-up with a hand sprayer). Make sure the water temp is well below body temp, which is too warm. If you suspect the soil has been adulterated with something phytotoxic, you have little choice other than to flush the soil and then try to mitigate any subsequent tendency of the soil to retain too much water. Look at B and E to see how much excess water you can remove by tipping the pot and using a wick. Also, if the pot is a 7" pot, you can hold it over the sink and move it down then sharply upward to rid the soil of virtually ALL excess water. Think of what you do after pouring pasta in a colander - after it stops draining. You grab the colander and move it up and down to remove LOT of additional water. Do that with your little plant. If more growers applied that technique they would help their plants realize significantly more of their genetic potential. The pot should be detached from the reservoir, and the plant should never rest in the effluent that exits the drain holes. The purpose of flushing the soil when we water is to rid the soil of an increasing level of mineral salts from tap water and fertilizer solution. If the plant rests in its effluent, the level of salts very quickly reaches a state of isotonicity (balance in the salt levels between the water in the collection saucer and the soil solution), which in the end is like the soil was never flushed at all. Al

pip313: These haven't been fertilized. Fertilizer damage would have been more apparent when they were repotted in the new soil (if there was higher level of fertilizer with Miracle Gro) and wouldn't appear several months after being repotted. Vladimir: I haven't applied any fertilizer. I've only repotted them into the 3 gallon containers with miracle gro. OJ: Well, I am pretty further north so we get short days during the winter. This specific tree is genetically predisposed to produce giant leaves. The nodes are extended on the right branch that started growing less than a year ago. The main branch on the left is fine in terms of node spacing.

Was it in full direct sun in its former life or in the shade? Light coming through glass is filtered even if the glass is clear, so if got significant outdoor sunlight befdore you got it, overwatering seems more likely than sunburn. So, how do you water? Does the pot have a drain hole? The brown patches look just like the photos in the other FLF threads on the first page of this forum (and dozens more on the pages after that), almost every one of which is due do overwatering, so don't feel like you're the first person to have the issue. I almost feel like starting a thread aimed at new FLF owners! Anyhow, the goal is to control soil moisture so the roots don't die from drought or suffocate from lack of oxygen in saturated soils. I'll bet the soil in that pot is very fine, peaty, water retentive potting soil that stays saturated in the bottom half of the pot long after the top inch or two is bone dry. The good news is that there's an easy, quick and reliable way to check soil moisture and prevent any more drowned roots. Here's a thread about caring for sick plants that will explain what's going on, and here's an excerpt from a post by tapla (Al) specifically about when and how to water. Try his method and your plant will love it. And don't hesitate to ask more questions! "You can tell you've watered too much (or too little - the response is the same - a drought response) when leaves start to turn yellow or you begin to see nutritional deficiencies created by poor root metabolism (usually N and Ca are first evident). You can prevent overwatering by A) testing the soil deep in the container with a wood dowel ... wet & cool - do not water, dry - water. B) feeling the wick & only watering when it's dry C) feel the soil at the drain hole & only water when it feels dry there. Soils feel dry to our touch when they still have 40-45% moisture content. Plants, however, can still extract water from soils until they dry down to about 25-30%, so there is still around a 15% cush in that plants can still absorb considerable moisture after soils first feel dry to us. Water slowly until the soil is saturated but no water (or very little water) has exited the pot drain. Wait 10-15 minutes and water again so at least 15-20% of the volume of water used ion both applications flushes out the accumulating salts. After the pot stops draining, you can return it to its normal spot and arrangmt. Wait until time to water again & repeat the routine."