I think that with sour cherries any more than a 30% size reduction is quite risky as they are weak healers and wounds don't close off well. Take 2 years to complete this reduction. The safest thing would be to remove lower branches to accomodate a net and then not allow it to get higher with annual pruning.

If lowering height is necessary and worth the risk, lower half as much as desired point first year cutting to a large scaffold at a slant away from that branch. Remove most of the weight before making the final cut making sure not to strip bark off remaining tree.

Repeat process following year to permanent height. Any other pruning to open up the tree to more light (not really necessary for sour cherries) should involve no stub cutting and mostly the removal of entire branches, either right to the trunk or to the point of connection to a larger branch.

Usually ascetics are an issue so you should prune for balance and a certain level of symetry. This usually means taking off more wood from the top than the bottom.

The most practical solution is to plant another sour cherry and maintain it at the size you want it. They grow quickly when not competing with weeds, grass or other trees.

Make sure that you prune it in truly dry weather. Prunus are notorious for getting infections, usually bacterial, when opened in wet weather.
John S
PDX OR