Well, the light shouldn't be a problem unless it was in dim light before you brought it home (hiding in the back behind other plants?) and couldn't take the shock. Also, how dry is it in your house - if it's anything like the usual for your area, it's probably pretty low, so you want to get a big wide tray or something full of rocks under the pot, full of water, but NOT high enough to touch the pot or roots will rot - but it's a lot better than spraying 1-2 a day. Many plants will drop leaves in new locations (ficus is terrible that way), but don't overcompensate and overwater, because leafless trees can't use much water at all, so let a good 20% of the soil dry before you do it again. You might want to back it away from the window just 1-2' (again, don't overdo it) for a week, just to let it acclimatize a bit slower to the light. And give it a few weeks to recover and start growing new leaves. Relax, it's not dead (or shouldn't be) and it just needs some time.

Hello, I am located in south Texas with temperature well over 100F, 109 couple of days last week, my 4 years experience, adenium do ok in full sun up to 105F above some of them depending on the plant, leaves start to burn but in your temperature you should have them in full sun, regarding on your plant I think it just need more water I recommend to do it 3 times per week during summer, this with good draining soil, adenijms are not desert plants, and in places as hot as ours should be treated as tropical in summer and as cactus in winter Hope it helps Roberto

Al helped me greatly when I was having so much trouble with my young fig trees this spring. I originally used regular garden soil (bagged) and there was no drainage, then, I repotted them in MG Moisture Control potting soil and that was even worse because the soil stayed sodden. Al suggested I put wicks in one of the holes in the bottoms of the pots, so I did and that even did no good, so I got some Fafard Professional Potting Mix and repotted them again and used the wicks while the plants were little, but pulled them from the pots when the root ball developed. The wicks are made from string mop refills and can be found at Wal-Mart and they are RAYON, not cotton. You need to read the package to make sure they are rayon. You cut one to a shorter length and can feed it up into the pot if the plant is already in the pot. I used a screwdriver and wet the wick and then folded a little of the top over for the screwdriver to grab onto and then stuck it up into the hole in the bottom of the pots. The rayon doesn't stay soggy, but provides a pathway for perched water to find its way out of the bottom of the pot and into the ground. Hope that's not confusing. Perched water is water that sits in the bottom of the pot and never drains out, which will end up killing the little roots and then the plant. Did I get that right, Al, if you see this? :) noss

My Fuyu in Northern Virginia is about 10 years old. It has had years where it produced lots of fruit initially and had a big June fruit drop and it has had years where it did not set a lot of fruit. However, last year, after a particularly harsh winter it produced a lot of fruit and had minimal June fruit drop. Point is that if you keep it appropriately watered, fertilized and it is in a sunny place it will have good and bad years. I believe the harshe winter helped production. Here are pictures of the tree thatproduced the harvest of over 200 persimmons in 2014.