If you are looking for a specific breed, look at feathersite.com, under each breeds he lists breed clubs and breeders, they would most likely be a good source. You can also try eggbid.com, they sell adult birds, started birds, chicks, fertile eggs and equipment in an auction-type setting, much like ebay. You can also ask at the local feed store or ask to put up a notice if they have a bulletin board. 4H clubs, ag colleges, etc. There are also people around that will share hatching eggs, I offer some from my flock if you don't mind the 'box of chocolates' approach--all my birds run together so you never now what you are going to get! *L* I've got pics of my flock on my site if you are interested, just click on my 'My Page' link. Velvet ~:>

I think the critical thing to understand is that fertilizer is not needed for healthy growth in soil that is well conditioned through years of organic inputs. The key points to focus on is that most soils require years of organic inputs and we aren't talking about a light dusting with compost either. We are talking about modifying the soil so around 30+ percent is organic matter. We also aren't talking about growing award winning giant pumpkins in that soil, we are talking about plants that grow healthy and reasonably. Most trees, shrubs and perennials grow well in soils with low to moderate fertility and compost alone is more than capable of doing the job. Annuals grown for effect whether it be an ornamental flower or high yielding veggy will almost always benefit from understanding the plant's growth cycle and environmental requirements for not just good, healthy growth, but optimal yields and then meeting them. Some perennial plants grown for fruit also qualify. If one wants a nice looking yard full of healthy plants that do well, compost alone is sufficient. If one wants a 5lb tomato or a 1000# + pumpkin then one best start researching the plant's nutrient requirements and fertilizers that will optimally meet them.

Best source I've found might be a bit of a drive, but if you have or can get use of a pickup, their material is what they use in their commercial potting mix. And thus doesn't have weed seeds and the like. http://www.pro-gromixes.com/index2.htm (just copy and paste into a new browser window) Their "spillage" potting mix is the best value but drains too fast for raised beds. Don't ask how I know... Tillamook Compost is outstanding. I've never inquired about straight soil as such, I've just mixed their compost or pumice or "clay buster" with the clay I've got. Works very well. Tom

What is best and what will keep your lawn the healthiest is a soil that is well endowed with organic matter that is evenly moist but well drained, so the place to start is with the soil. What is the pH of the soil? How much organic matter is in the soil? How well does that soil drain? How well does that soil retain moisture? What kind of life is in that soil? What does the soil smell like? Perhaps these simple soil tests may be of some help. Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. Also contact the local office of the Cornell Cooperative Extension Service about having a good reliable soil test done for soil pH and major nutrient levels. Once you know what you have now you can make plans to correct any deficiencies. kimmq is kimmsr