njrookie, this is auteck, what's your location?

njrookie - I'll try to answer your questions but as it would apply to my locality and regarding turf fescue/KBG. If you're around Trenton, NJ we're about 500 miles south of you (not that great but could amount to a 3-4 warm-up delay:
1 reasonable spring flush, but expected
2 their tips are for a full chem fertilizer (3-1-2) at specified rate on back of package
3 not unless you're having an abnormally warm winter...grass should still be dormant
4 Yes, if you gave a full chem fert compliment twice in the fall. If you did not fert once or twice in fall, I would still apply in mid-Feb, then a light booster fert again in mid-Apr (or whatever the non-chem app would be).
5 Yes, or any pre-emerg, then apply again early May. I'm gonna apply a Lesco combo (fert+Dim...I know it's frowned upon, but I have to use it)

Last year was a bad year for most growing of anything with the drought and heat, so consider it a wash with everything you tried. You really have to do a full fert in the fall (3-1-2...preferably twice-Sep/Nov or Oct/Dec) to get that kick in the spring, but an application or 2 of Milorganite in late spring won't hurt if you don't want to do a chem fert in late spring.

Maybe some of the other experts can chime in, but I've found the NCSU recommendations to be sound.

Of course, I'll stand by the ever-constant disclaimer of "I'm no expert but it's worked for me" thing. :)

...make that 3-4 WEEKS warm-up delay.

Hi jimtnc,

I live about 10 miles to the east of trentron. You are right on.

I usually do an organic application (SBM) in sep followed by a Nov-Dec application of Lesco 21-2-11 or 18-0-18 (our soil has too much P already). Both full rate. I have TTTF, with a little bit of KBG mixed in. In Spring I do a 0.5-0.75 lb of N around early May using Lesco HD Dimension 0.15 combo. Usually I do not see any crabgrass before that. By the end of July, crabgrass start to emerge in the thin spots. Usually I just pull them out at that stage.

So taking into account of the 3-4 weeks delay, do you think I should do a mid-March full rate application then? I guess the trick is to do it when the grass is still dormant.

When does grass wake up in NC? I stayed in Chapel Hill for 4 years, but was not paying enough attention back then (too much school work). Here in NJ we are looking at Early-April for green-up.

njrookie

njrookie, climate in Trenton, NJ, is VERY similar to Asheville, NC. Although your record highs are in the 100's vs 90's for Asheville.

You could follow NC State's website, but follow the guidelines for the western part of the state only.

Don't be afraid to fertilize your lawn, Golf courses do it year round. The difference is they never let their green go dry.

I'm down in near Raleigh, NC, last year I fertilized my KBG in June, right before the summer set in. My lawn did well, better than expected for such a record-breaking summer. I kept the lawn watered/moist, and used a fertilize summer formula (26-3-12 with iron).

As far as fertilizing in the winter, do it! You can't hurt the grass during the winter months unless you have a warm season grass? Down here most people have fescue lawns, it's what recommended by NCSU. Most lawns now are starting to look like warm season grasses in early fall - way off green. I know it's because of lack of fertilizer. There are a few fescue lawns that are green, those have been fertilized. My lawn is green, I last fertilized 12/01/07 with 30-3-3 2% iron. Tomorrow I'm going to give it another shot of the same.

One thing you definatelly don't want to do is over-fertilize your lawn. Always read the recommendations on bag. If you thinking about fertilizing in the summer, do it at half the rate, and ONLY if you are planning on watering it, otherwise, forget it.

Anyway, I hope this helps a little bit.

njrookie - what you're doing seems to be right on schedule. I usually like to hit it again with true Dimension around early-mid May to reinforce the first app of Dim. Seems to do a little better. I too get a little CG pop up here and there in late summer...usually where there is a bare spot or very little growth, and just spot treat those areas.

auteck looks to have a nice lawn, but my own opinion about fertilizing in summer is you're asking for trouble applying a full fert in Jun Jul or Aug, unless it's Milorganite or an organic application (SBM?)... something that's very low in nitrogen and not gonna burn your lawn to hell.

You're March app I think should be okay (not sure about your area). I put it out here in mid Feb because we start getting growth in Mar, so then it's too late for pre-m's. But, from what I see you're right on track if you don't stretch that spring app more than 2-3 weeks from here. Some years it might be mild one and you might have to adjust your schedule a bit if you see some things starting to grow, but just tweak it as needed.

Eastern PA here, and I'll continue the reinforcement of "don't worry too much about the timing." January, February, March...all are fine as the grass is dormant. Moving into mid-March, it usually starts to awaken. Some years, not all.

I put down a full application of Milorganite in January because it was reasonably dry and not too cold to be out. Plus, I wanted to dormant seed some of the areas that didn't fully restore in the lawn changeover last year. If you prefer to do it in February, that's just fine.

Most of my app won't think about making itself available until late March, and then only very slowly. I definitely won't need to think about doing anything until very late April or May.

OK. March 1 it is. I guess earlier will NOT hurt, but lawn would NOT absorb as well. So there will be more N washed away. Will do a full dose, without pre-m. I do not water my lawn at all. I will probably skip or go light on an mid-May application.

thanks everyone for help/clarification.

njrookie