It won't be long now! I know I have mentioned this before, but how in the world do they figure the zones. They have changed me to zone 7, previously I was just zone 6, so I would think we would have very similar growing seasons. My iris are at peak, heading downward now. I'm seeing more scapes on daylilies every day, although it will be a while before I actually see bloom. Although with 80 degree temps this week, it may be sooner than I expect. My Dutch iris didn't even bloom this year, & made no pretense of trying. Maybe they need more cold weather? Last year I didn't get any bloom on my Dutch iris, Eye of the Tiger, they looked crowded, so I divided them. I was sure they would bloom this year. I don't know...when I planted it I think I started out with a dozen bulbs. There were at least 100 when I divided, all in one little clump. Maybe they need to grow. My yellow Dutch iris has been blooming for years, hasn't multiplied much, but didn't bloom this year either.

I have a clivia - orange - that I purchased at the Boston Flower Show about 35 years ago. It continues to bloom but the stalk is indeed too short. I give it the winter resting period and I only water about once a month the rest of the year. As I recall, it is a light feeder so feed accordingly. I do so in the spring a bit, a little in the summer and not at all in the fall or winter. Wish I could get a taller stalk. Thanks. "Just hope this is not the type of clivia with short stalk" I didn't know there was such a thing -- hope not.

Happy to suggest. Hopefully the roots will grow quickly and fill the pot soon. Trees that size should grow a lot of roots very quickly, and usually need to be trimmed often or it would so quickly end up in a pot so big that nobody could pick it up. I would remove the worst of the browned leaves, trim the others, so I would know if it is spreading. Some loss of older leaves can be expected from the disturbance of repotting, but a flush of new growth always follows when I repot (assuming sufficient light.) Whenever possible, give this pot distilled, rain, &/or condensate from a dehumidifier or A/C because the chemicals in tap water can make Dracaenas ill. It looks a bit big to move around when thirsty, so a turkey baster might be a good minor investment, to suction excess water after watering, instead of leaving it in the cache pot. Leaving it can cause the roots to suffocate/rot. It's hard to moisten the soil thoroughly through all parts of it without some excess water dripping out of the holes at the bottom, so that would be a way to have the best of both for this bigger, heavier plant.

Your plant is in good shape. There should be a node between those two rings on the side shoot that grew from the node on the main stem. Even if you can't see a bump which would indicate a node, it's probably there. If the main stem is longer than it looks and goes down into the soil there could be a node underground that could break and make a plant. Did you happen to see a node when you potted and rerooted it? A node looks like a small raised bump, sometimes it's within a raised circle of tissue, it's often fairly flat and just barely peaked above the level of the stem. A node is produced within each section of the stem as it grows. I would give this cutting a lot of time to show new growth before giving up and discarding it. If you're in a cold state or country I would wait until at least through the end of next summer.