Ford: It is possible that your tree could be strong in it's present form. It is hard to tell without seeing the tree. But at the stage your tree is at, it is likely to be best to choose the best side and cut the other off. It might even be best to cut the entire tree off at 2 to 3 ft. This depends on the current shape and how you want to train the tree. Most here train their cherries to an open center vase.

The Fruitnut

It sounds fine as-is to me -- any low branching is good in my mind. I have several apple trees growing as Y shapes like this.

Scott

Ford:

If you purchased your cherry tree locally, it is probably on a full-size rootstock rather than a dwarf. The difference in growth habit is profound. Left on their own, sweet cherry trees on standard rootstocks can grow up vertically very quickly, making it impossible to care for the trees even from a ladder.

Consequently, I would agree with what fruitnut recommends: Cut the tree off at about 3 feet and force it to form side branches at a lower altitude. When branches appear, spread them out so they receive lots of sunlight and try to achieve a roughly vase shape.

It will not be easy for you to grow Bing in your location. Bing is a West Coast cherry, subject to cracking before it ripens, and difficult to pollinate. The trees themselves are also susceptible to a number of bacterial diseases. I don't know why they sell these trees at Home Depot and other bigbox stores in the midwest, since they are so difficult for a beginner to grow successfully. However, keeping the tree low and small will give you the best shot. Birds are another issue, but one I won't raise since you are still a long way from having actual cherries on a newly planted tree.

Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA