If you should take cuttings from them or not would all depend on what is wrong with them, why they "don't seem to be doing that well"? If it is a disease problem then cuttings are a waste of time. If it is a nutrient problem then the cuttings will have the same problems unless you ID and fix it. Is it lack of sun, lack of water, what are the symptoms? Otherwise I agree with the advice above - trench in the entire plant leaving just the growing tip exposed and hope for the best recovery and production. Dave

HATE compactors: messy, noisy, & the trash gets too heavy. While we do have garbage disposals, we use them only for bits from prepping & very liquid waste that would be a problem in a trash can. We now have 2 pullouts, each having 2 plastic trash bins that can be easily removed, one bin for trash & the other for recycling. One pullout is in our cleanup zone, next to a dishwasher, and the other is on the opposite side of our island, near refrigerator, prep zone, & pantry. The bins get emptied into big covered & wheeled carts (outside) that our city supplies for waste collection. I think the decision really depends on your trash & recycling collection situation, your kitchen layout, and personal preference. Compactors are not a "must" item these days for resale or convenience.

The Rev-A-Shelf trash pullouts are designed for cabinets that are either full-height or just have the one shallow drawer on top. What I think others have done here, is purchased a roll out tray shelf (ROTS) and attached it to one of the sink cabinet's doors (or get 2 & attach one to each door.) Size the ROTS for the cabinet opening. Rev-A-Shelf generally tells you not only the width of their ROTS, etc. but also the size opening you need...width, depth, and height. BTW...the opening needed will also depend on the type of drawer glides....side or bottom. Side glides will take away from the available opening width; bottom glides will will take away from the available opening height. [I hope that makes sense...] With frameless cabinets, the width opening size is the cabinet width minus the thickness of each side wall. Then, divide that by two if you have two doors. So, if you have 1/2" side walls: 33" - 1/2" - 1/2" = 32" 32" / 2 = 16" opening on each side of the sink base If you have 3/4" walls: 33" - 3/4" - 3/4" = 31-1/2" 31-1/2" / 2 = 15-3/4" opening on each side of the sink base With face framed cabinets, the width opening size is the cabinet width minus the thickness of the face frame on each side. Then, divide that by two if you have two doors. If you have a 1-1/2" frame around the cabinet (the most common frame size): 33" - 1-1/2" - 1-1/2" = 30" 30" / 2 = 15" opening on each side of the sink base Sample Rev-A-Shelf Specs: Physical Specifications (min / max) Width: (inches)..........14 Depth: (inches)..........22.500 Height: (inches)..........5.625 Weight: (lbs)..........11.60 Minimum Cabinet Opening Width: (inches)..........14.500 Depth: (inches)..........22.750 Height: (inches)..........5.750 Typical Cabinet:..........B-18 Note: If you have enough height b/w the bottom of your sink and the bottom of the cabinet, you might be able to get one of the trash pullouts that have the trash cans sitting on a base/ROTS, like the "4WC Series" [Waste Containers --> Wood Accessories --> Pull-Out Waste Containers --> 4WC Series]

Can you post some pics of the wire. Maybe if we see it, we can come up with some ideas. I think a mini green house out of the cooler bottle is a fantastic idea though. Sal