Wow, what wimpy answers! I would have amended soil with the meals. Amount would be based on what the manufacturer recommended. On Urea. you need about 0.4 oz per gallon of water. Not 4! Point 4 oz. Less than 1/2 oz. The meals are organic slow acting, so hard to harm berries. The Urea is strong and easy to hurt the berries.

I also would agree with fruitnut and jean on no more applications of aluminum sulfate. Use garden sulfur for long term dropping of the ph. Vinegar water for the short term. Be careful not to get any of the leaves or rinse them off. I put in 30 new blueberry plants last spring (In your zone - just a little north. Also have the same soil mix) and most of them had a reddish tint on the leaves most of the year. Didn't lose any of the 30 but 1 was on the brink. This year I started the fruitnut fertilizer program (1 tbls of ammonium sulfate dissolved in 2.5 gallons of water). The plants have great color this year. I don't reccomend that rate on newly planted bushes though. I'd go 1 tbls in 4 or 5 gallons for year 1. I think the improved color is the result of both the garden sulfur finally getting the ph below 5.5 and the fertilizer program. Garden sulfur is very slow at becoming effective in our zone. The soil is cold or frozen 8 months of the year. Hang in there... Keep your soil moist... I think you will be OK.

In my yard, the most prolific producers are Duke and Elliot. They set fruits everywhere including small twigs with no leaves. Getting advice from this forum this year, I thinned all of those small twigs out and thinned other smaller berries from each clusters, too. On Duke alone, I probably thinned hundreds and hundreds. If it's too late to help size up the remaining berries, I figure it will help safe some energy for the bushes to grow better next year. Chandler and Blue Ray get more than 6 hrs of sun. Duke and Elliot gets about 6 hrs The rest gets about 4-5 hrs only. They've produced well even with that amount of sun.

If you're not going to water in the summer, then anything but St Aug will be better than St Aug. It will die if not watered once a month or so. If the zoysia does not do well in the shade, then St Aug is the only option. So then, in prep for sod, no need to rototill or aerate. Just rake or scrape off the surface dead growth. Then lay the sod. Make sure they leave no gaps between sod pieces. The sod pieces should be staggered meaning that it should not look like a checkerboard. They should roll the sod down to ensure good contact between the roots and the soil. Then start watering briefly (5-10 minutes), 3x per day (breakfast, lunch, and dinner times), for the next 2 weeks. Then check a few pieces to see if they have knit to the soil. Try lifting a corner. By then the roots should be biting into the soil. Then you can back off on watering until you are watering deeply (1 inch) and infrequently (once per week max during the hottest heat of summer). That watering schedule may be much different from what your neighbors say and all your local advice, but their daily watering schedule does not develop a great root system. Daily watering also encourages every weed seed to sprout, and you don't want that. So as soon as the sod knits down, start backing off on the watering frequency. Are you interested in an inexpensive organic fertilizing routine. Here is a picture of a zoysia lawn with a handful of alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow) applied a month earlier... You can see the improved color, density and growth. Alfalfa is usually applied at 15-20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. You can buy it at any feed store in 50-pound bags. You and your daughter might appreciate organic.