Any time you remove an apical meristem (tip of branch or stem where elongation occurs), it forces branching proximal to the pruning cut, which means you get more leaves (on the new branches). All nutrients plants normally get from the soil are equally essential to normal growth. Even the least used nutrients can cause growth abnormalities or stalled growth. Remember, growth is a measure of the increase in a plant's mass, so a plant that is extending might not actually be growing. The little ditty about what the plant is supposed to do with the N, P, and K it takes up (up, down, all around) as a way to remember that N is for the top of the plant (foliage), P is for the roots and blooms, and K is supposed to benefit the plant's general well being is misleading and inaccurate. The plant needs P and K for foliage growth as much as it needs N. It needs N for roots and blooms as much as it needs P, and it needs all the other nutrients for its general well being as much as it needs K. There is a distinct advantage in supplying nutrients at the ratio closest to that at which the plant uses them. A fertilizer's RATIO is different than its NPK %s. EG, 24-8-16, 12-4-8, and 9-3-6 are all 3:1:2 ratios, and supply nutrients in very close to the ratio at which plants actually use them. I use a 3:1:2 ratio fertilizer for everything I grow, and it works very well. I like Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 because it has ALL the essential nutrients, in the right ratio, in soluble form so nutrients are immediately available, and it derives most of it's N from nitrate sources, instead of from urea, and that fact helps to keep plants compact & from getting leggy in low light conditions. It also contains Ca and Mg - two nutrients most soluble fertilizers don't include. Al

Well, I guess there are differeing opinions about everything, LOL. Just depends on your conditions and the resources available to you. That said, I will put in my 2 cents, even though it may be worse less than that. buyorsell888 is right...this is a really common philo that you should be able to pick up at almost any box store during the growing season for a few bucks. But, that can depend on where you live, as things like philos are very common in some areas and less so or even uncommon depending on where you live tootswisc, the leafless stems of philodendron (and epipremnum, rhaphidophora, and some vining types of anthurium) will root if you have at least 2-3 "nodes" that you can bury in the soil. The nodes on the stem of these plants give rise to either a root, a leaf, or in some cases both. If you have a 3-node cutting and plant 2 nodes under the soil and leave the 3rd above, a new offshoot with a new stem and leaves should arise from the 3rd node after the others root and the plant resumes growth I mix garden soil with my potting soil all the time. Its a common practise here with folks, especially those of us that live in rural areas. Florida's native soil is commonly called "Myakka fine sand". That's exactly what it is: sand. It drains fast, and has a pretty poor nutrient content unless its from an area where there is a lot of leaf mold mixed in. It makes a great soil extender when you mix your own soil blends for potting, along with perlite, organic humus and peat moss. If I lived somewhere where the soil was heavy clay I wouldn't use it, but mine is fine to mix in for containerized plants. An added bonus: the earthworms!

dig up the esente and clean the roots a bit cut all the leaves off and hang it sideways in the basement. no water needed all winter. if you can't hang it up just sit it in a empty pot till spring. they over winter very well and really dont need anything else

Sarah, yes, cut the stems. Stems can also be rooted in water. After roots form, they can either go back in the pot with mom, 'fuller' or made in separate plants. Your Philo needs more light. Is there a nearby window? One lamp isn't sufficient.