Spray effectiveness vs time to rain ?
garedneck
12 years ago
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Scott F Smith
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoalan haigh
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Spraying versus rain every few days.
Comments (3)The term systemic can be confusing. Actually when systemics are referred to in fruit culture, generally the more specific term is locally systemic, which means a very limited movement of the pesticide, mostly translaminar, which means movement from one part of the leaf to another, so that if a drop of the chemical lands on a leaf, the whole leaf is protected. Neonicotinoids (basically synthetic nicotine) and spinosyns (Delegate and its organic counterpart, Spinosad) fall into this category. Depending on the chemical, some of them can penetrate the fruit, where they break down, just as they do outside the fruit. The other type of systemic is more broad where the chemical is taken up by the roots and is present throughout the entire tree. Imidacloprid is that type of systemic, and although there is now a formulation for fruit trees, I believe it isn't approved for bearing orchards. Regarding your spray program, I think you're spraying much more than you need to at this point. For #1: Since the insect larva is there when the peach ripens, it is most likely oriental fruit moth (OFM). If it's a tiny entrance hole with pectin bleeding out, it's most definitely OFM. The moth doesn't start flying until after petal fall, so you can wait to start spraying for it after that, but it does require season long control. For #2: This is brown rot and is also a very common problem with stone fruit. Some peaches are more resistant than others. There are two optimum times to protect your crop from this disease. First, and less important, the fungus makes it's presence around bloom. The fungus infects the flowers and can kill them as well as form small cankers on shoots. Although, this does not directly affect the fruit, the cankers and dead flowers can be a source of disease inoculum to infect your fruit later in the season. Therefore, some people choose to spray for brown rot at this time. However, a much more critical time to control this disease is when the fruit gets close to ripening. Once the fruit starts sizing and changing color (last thirty days) it is very susceptible to brown rot. So it's at this time that sprays are the very most effective. In fact, propiconazole, which is what I would recommend to you, is only labeled for use around bloom, and as harvest approaches (It's not labeled for mid-season.) Propiconazole can be purchased on-line as Montery Fungi Fighter. For #3: This I'm unsure about. If you mean the insect is entering the stems of fruit, it could again be OFM. They will sometimes make a blind entrance into the fruit through the stem. However, I've not heard of them causing a swelling in the stem of the fruit. Whatever they are, your OFM control should take care of this pest as well. Lastly, I would discontinue spraying the lime sulfur and from now on would only do one dormant spray application in the spring, which would consist of copper, with a little oil added as a sticker. The lime sulfur isn't going to do much for the pests you mention. I continue to recommend Triazicide once and Done as an insecticide (available at big box stores). It has excellent knockdown of all major stone fruit pests and provides decent residual control. For your interest, the link below discusses rainfastness of various insecticides Here is a link that might be useful: Rain, Rain Go Away...See MoreApple tree spraying and rain
Comments (8)Gary: It would be best to start with telling us what you propose to spray with (insecticide/fungicide?) and what your target is, be it disease or insect. The only thing I have sprayed so far on apples following the dormant oil/copper spray in early March is 3 applications of Ferbam against cedar apple rust. These applications have all been in the first two months of April, when wind blown rains occur and CAR wakes up. I am gun-shy about CAR after last season when I became overconfident and it ruined 90% of my apples. Spring 2008 was very bad for CAR here, but it can happen any time. I may do one more application, and that will be it for Ferbam. I use a spreader/sticker, but Ferbam clings pretty well even alone, and I am pretty sure it is doing the job. If you can't get Ferbam (which is hard to get), what are you using and why? I can't stop the rain, but want the fungicide on there when it arrives, and look for a window with a little sun and very low winds to spray. Several people on this list are experimenting with the systemic called Immunox against CAR, which may also be available under other trade names. I do not apply any insecticide to apples until after petal fall, out of consideration for my bees and other pollinators, but also because it is unnecessary. Plum curculio does not start until after fruit set and a few days of 70F or above temps. Codling moth comes a little later, and that's the time to be spraying Imidan, Permethrin or other effective insecticide. After a couple weeks of this, and after thinning, you can bag your apples or just keep spraying against codling moth. I bag the apples that I really want to be perfect. If you are spraying something like Captan or a combination spray like Bonide at this time of year, you might as well use dishwater. Might be more effective. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA...See MoreEffect of low temps and rain
Comments (11)Mrs. G., We are pretty much in the same boat. In fact, I have not had a chance to spray at all. Since May 8, it has rained almost everyday. A day or two that it did not rained, it's too windy to spray. During the first week of May when it was dry, my trees were not quite at petal fall. So I did not spray. So far, I have noticed a few damages on fruitlets. The rain stopped this morning but the wind has been blowing at 18 mph all day into tonight. I will spray tomorrow evening when the bees go home. That'll leave me Mon evening and Tues as dry days before it will rain again on Wed!! I don't think the temp at 40's would harm our fruit. I don't have plum that fruits so I can't say. I think apples and pears are tough. My peaches seem to tough it up well....See MoreLength of time for broadleaf herbicide effect?
Comments (2)With any weed-service contract, you have to expect that the chemical used might not kill ALL species of the weeds you have. It would be better for you to do some research into the particular weed--see what is effective on it. When a liquid broadleafed weed killer is used, it is recommended to water the area first....water it rather well, then wait for an hour. This acts as a capilliary action to draw the weed killer down to the roots of the weeds. Often, in warm areas, weed killers are used on nice, windless days, during the hottest part of the day and a lot of the liquid evaporates or runs away from where you want it. The watering first can help defeat that. Dependent on what kind of grass will stand up to broadleafed weeds might be another thing to look at. Generally, if you have tough weeds, then a second application is warranted. But, do give the first application a chance to work. Overkill will only hurt your soil and its ability to grow grass. If your grass, what grass you do have, is poor, that suggests your soil is not up to scratch. Whether you dig in organic matter or just layer it over the surface is up to you. But, if you can see your way to putting a layer ...1/2" - 1" of compost or good topsoil, over the area lawn in spring and fall....and do that for the next four years minimum, this will often result in much improved lawn. I realize in your neck of the woods, being a transitional state---through middle America, you might use a number of types of grass. What you have to do is find a type expressly for your circumstances....and stick with it. In the north, we regularly use a combination seed...Kentucky Blue...for sun; perennial ryegrass for toughness--able to take heavy traffic, and fescue for where shade might come on it. The independent grasses don't take on their own color or growth, they swim together and makes for a nice lawn. In your area, such combo wouldn't work....it would burn the first time your Oklahoma summer hit it. But, a combination of grasses you do use, might work. What do your neighbors use....what success does your neighbors have with lawns and does the local full-service garden nurseries give any advice. You might go to your local state funded university EXTENSION SERVICE, provided by such institutions. Thus, Oklahoma State and other colleges are at your beckon call. They have agriculture departments and many do soil tests at nominal charge, or free of charge. After all, they are funded by you....the Oklahoma taxpayer. A phone call might tell you if, and how to go about submitting a soil test. (actually its 'soil tests'....they require multiple samples from different parts of your property to give an accurate up-to-date result....See Morealan haigh
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoScott F Smith
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agogaredneck
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoalan haigh
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoolpea
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoJim_9999
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoalan haigh
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoalan haigh
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoScott F Smith
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoolpea
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoalan haigh
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoalan haigh
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoJim_9999
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoJim_9999
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoolpea
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoalan haigh
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoJim_9999
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoScott F Smith
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoalan haigh
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoJim_9999
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agodethride
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoalan haigh
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoalan haigh
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoPaul Person
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoumaguma54
7 years agoHU-680408333
4 years ago
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