Forgot the rooting hormone...
zusya
14 years ago
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Question about rooting hormone
Comments (15)Something I wrote a while back to post on a different thread. It may not be dead on the mark for this thread, but there is some useful info in it: Rooting aids I don't think it's accurate to pitch a particular brand or type of rooting hormone because different plant species respond to different chemicals, whether we are cloning hardwood, summer wood, or herbaceous/tip cuttings. Even though it's generally true that the most effective concentration levels normally vary and can be roughly grouped by the 3 types of cuttings you mentioned, the most effective chemical to use also varies and can be much more important than concentration levels; so, it is a combination of the concentration AND the choice of chemical + type of cutting and time of year that determines the effectiveness of a rooting chemical. The rooting aids are synthesized forms of the plant hormone/growth regulator 'auxin'. Indole butyric acid (IBA) and naphthalene acetic acid (NAA) are the two most common chemicals that have been found to be reliable in the promotion of rooting in cuttings. IBA is widely applied in general use because it is non-toxic to most plants over a wide range and promotes root growth in a large number of plant species. Some plants respond better to either IBA or NAA, some respond to ONLY one or the other, some may have a toxic reaction to one but not the other which will lead to poor or no growth and actually, mortality; and some respond best to combinations of both chemicals, or to other variations of either IBA or NAA based on K (potassium). Both IBA and NAA are commonly available in talc or in liquid formulations of varying concentrations. I do lots of propagating of several hard-to-root species, but only use a rooting aid occasionally for the most difficult. As a generalization, you should know on a per plant basis which chemical and concentration is most apt to be effective before applying it. I have found it mostly unnecessary. Learning a little about the cultural conditions cuttings prefer and some other tricks (like methods of wounding) along with cleanliness will add more to what it takes to be successful at propagating (plants) than rooting aids (except in the very hard to root plants). Al...See MoreAre basil cuttings rooted with rooting hormone safe?
Comments (4)Of course! Why wouldn't they be? If you're worried about it, however, next time just use pure honey instead of rooting hormone. To make rooting hormone soak the yellow-tipped shoots of a weeping willow tree in water. A tea made from the bark of a willow tree is also effective. When using the shoots or bark soak them for 24 hours prior to using. Rooting hormone is usually sold as indole butyric acid (IBA). It simply encourages the cuttings to form new roots....See MoreRooting Hormones
Comments (22)It won't hurt the plant. As long as the powder/liquid/gel does not touch the leaves, all is okay. Just an FYI, I don't use rooting hormone anymore UNLESS I am having great trouble rooting a certain plant. Most of mine have rooted on their own within 3-10 days. Another FYI...you can make a really cheap and effective rooting hormone using aspirin or honey. And both have desirable properties to them (antifungal/antibacterial/stress reducing). Recipe for honey rooting hormone: 2 cups water 1 tablespoon honey Boil water and add honey. Let cool. Once cooled, dip cutting in solution. Place in potting mix. Recipe for aspirin water: 1 or 2 - 250mg. UNCOATED aspirin pills (you can use 2, if just 1 does not seem to be working) 1 gallon water Boil water and cool until it is warm enough to touch (don't let it get completely cool, warmth helps pill dissolve) Place warm water in 1 gallon jug with lid. Add pill(s), put lid on and shake! I also use aspirin water on sulking plants and cuttings. Seems to help them feel better....See Morerooting fall cuttings
Comments (8)Marie You said ...'watered them with very dilute MG'... and I assumed that means diluted MG fertilizer? (I use MG 24.8.16 too). As for protected area, it helps a lot. Winds are eliminated. Temps are more even; thaw and freeze cycle is minimal if not eliminated, and that is a killer for plants. You won't get freezing rain on the pots. Perennials do not need warmth (it will be just a bit warmer in a shed, maybe couple of degrees, but still not too warm), but more even temps help a lot, especially with weaker/not-so-well established root system. IIRC, plumbago is rated hardy to z6 - it is often recommended to keep plants hardier by about 2 zones than they are rated to in containers. I don't follow that absolutely (but it gives me idea which plant should be more protected), but some protection definitely help. Even just keeping plants on north side of the house-structure helps to decrease thaw & freeze cycle (less heating up when there is sunshine and then freezing up when dark). Close to the house helps a lot too, as it creates bit of microclimate. I would definitely try, keeping them in area that doesn't get tons of sun/heat, and also mulch. Whatever you do, make sure drainage is very good - helps eliminating standing water that freezes. So if my plants, I would put them in shed. Not yet, but once it gets to freezing temps. Do not forget - they will need some water thru the winter too. Throwing a handful of snow on top now and then will keep just enough moisture....See Moretapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoterpguy
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agozusya
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agozusya
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoterpguy
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agogobluedjm 9/18 CA
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agogreenchic
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoquinnfyre
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoterpguy
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agogobluedjm 9/18 CA
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agogobluedjm 9/18 CA
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agogobluedjm 9/18 CA
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agocactusmcharris, interior BC Z4/5
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agocactusmcharris, interior BC Z4/5
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agozusya
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agogobluedjm 9/18 CA
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agocactusmcharris, interior BC Z4/5
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoterpguy
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agocactusmcharris, interior BC Z4/5
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoterpguy
14 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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