Fungus Gnats
eileen_plants
17 years ago
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birdsnblooms
17 years agoRelated Discussions
Remedy for Fungus Gnats in Palm's Soil
Comments (16)If the post was current, I'd say: #1 suggestion would be to stop using any household cleaner (dishsoap) as a way to clean leaves or in an insecticidal capacity. See something I wrote about it below. BTW, disregard any argument that goes something like "I've been doing it for years and have noticed no adverse effects ......". The fact is, it destroys cuticular wax, and if it gets to the roots, root lipid membranes. So, it prevents or limits roots from taking up water/nutrients, and destroys the mechanism by which plants limit water loss from their foliage and protect against insects and entry of pathogens. If you need a product to clean leaves or to use as an insecticide, insecticidal soaps are made from long chain fatty acids, formulated to be safe for most plants, though there are a few plants sensitive even to insecticidal soaps. A mix of 70% isopropyl/rubbing alcohol and water at 1:1 or 2:1 (2 water: 1 alcohol) if all you need for mites. Spritz the plant thoroughly at 4 day intervals, making sure you coat the entire surface of the plant, including inferior leaf surfaces and and leaf axils where they tend ti hide in the dark. A change in watering habits or a change in your grow medium are usually all you need to be rid of gnats. Unless your pot is 5" deep or less, avoid the advice to water when the top inch or two of the soil is dry. It's a recipe for over-watering and the very idea is enough to make a gnat's eyes spin in anticipation of the orgiastic frenzy induced by media the surface of which provides a never ending supply of wet/rotting organic matter. This should be helpful, as would be changing to a highly aerated medium, the surface of which dries quickly, and using a "tell" to "tell" you when it's time to water. Detergents Dishsoap/ detergent’s effect on plants varies with the mode of exposure. Dawn, Palmolive, Joy, ...... dishsoap, as an example, are each and all a mishmash of chemicals, at least eleven of which are phytotoxic. If the top of the plant is sprayed thoroughly with even mild detergent solutions such that all surfaces including leaves are covered, the detergent can easily dissolve the protective coating of cuticular wax on the leaves of the plant, causing abnormally high rates of water loss and possible necrosis of all or part of the leaf. Cuticular waxes prevent leaves from drying out, and help stop pathogens from attacking the leaf. Strong solutions will even dissolve cell membranes, causing death of the cells. If a detergent solution is used as a soil drench or makes its way into the soil as a consequence of over-spray or run-off, the effect on roots is immediate. Because one of the main function of roots is to absorb water and nutrients dissolved in water, they lack the waxy protective coating that leaves employ. Detergent solution in contact with root cells can quickly dissolve the lipid membrane surrounding cells, killing the cells and inhibiting water/ nutrient uptake. Hair cells growing as appendages off larger roots do the lion’s share of assimilating water and nutrients, and these very delicate cells would be the first casualty of any detergent in the root zone. There are widely available insecticidal soaps, designed to be used topically and made mixing potassium with only long chain fatty acids, carefully selected and specifically formulated to be safe for mammals & birds, death on most insects they contact, and most important, safe for plants. If you need something "soapy", it would be much better if you selected a product intended for use on plants than one intended for other purposes. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. What I use for grow media: Al...See MoreAre these fungus gnats? Christmas Cacti
Comments (31)Monica, The main active ingredient in that product is imidacloprid which is a powerful toxic chemical. While it is quite effective at getting rid of many awful pests including spider mites and mealy bugs (my personal nemesis, the mealy) it also kills many beneficial insects like bees. It is also harmful to people and pets. I have used it in the past, and if faced with mealy bugs dripping off my plants I might resort to it again, but for now I have eliminated bayer from my own toolkit. Easy decision since NY State made it illegal first, and amazon won't even ship it to me. I would never ever consider spraying or using it indoors. I encourage you to do some research on imidacloprid to at least be well informed. If you eat the fruit from your citrus, make sure you know what you are doing. Daniel...See MoreDo fungus gnats damage roots?
Comments (26)rina I was answering the ? on a ficus. it is my opinion a thin layer of sand ON TOP about a 1/2in you still get airation you just do not have to water as often. You will have to experiment with how much water you give it cause it will be less and sand still compacts enough to kill the eggs (has to be coarse sand) .does not effect drainage if using right medium with good pots with alot of drainage holes it take alil longer to go threw the sand if you pouring water on top and get a more even watering to go threw the sand. But when i use organics and also making compost tea with the heat from the lights i got this problem.But I am activating the micro organisms with air pump to maximize the organics that im buying and using in media and teas so i go threw alot less fertilizers when i feed and when I water the roots are getting air h20 from the water.But this is how i got fungus gnats with the organics and the heat from my lights and how i cured my problem was with sand. I dont water every day or every other day cause in my soil i use coconut fiber,sand, and other media which retains some moisture and it gives it more time before I water again. I only feed once or twice a month and water in between depending on my plants When i have grown lilac trees using organics i had a good pearl white root zone.It also depends on what you are growing succulents most of them only get watered twice a month . Also some succlulents do prefer a sandy soil cactus is part of the succulent family what do they grow in?Also there are other succulents that prefer sandy soil too or peat or rock. Check further down in container gardening there is a thread called water release curve for growing media ingredent. But in the end it is what works best for you and what results you want to achieve and how much you want to experiment,research and read . This is what works good for me....See MoreFungus gnats + hydrogen peroxide
Comments (24)Soil dwelling organisms like larva and worms feed on freshly decomposing organic matter. In fact, they are part of the chain of decomposition. They feed and poop and then lower organisms process it further. FG's primary food is fungus and freshly decomposing organic matter. Of course, bark and peat are organic matter but nowhere near the same class as leaves, seeds, fruits from the plants. Plus bark and peat both resist decomposition - bark more than peat. But that is what makes it so attractive for soil mixes. Otherwise we could have added any wood chips or other organic matter. In case of 511, not only it is not a suitable base for FG, the top inch or two will dry out quickly making it even harder for FGs to thrive. Of course, all these can be negated by someone who habitually over-waters and does not keep the medium clean of organic debris. All my plants are in 511, gritty or similar structured mixes. And I have not had FGs at least for a decade now. In isolated cases I do get some and always it boils down to a pot that is basically spent - a combination of other accumulated organic matter and severely decomposed bark. People do have reported problems sometimes with FG in 511 mix. Almost all of them used processed potting mix for the peat fraction. And they are notorious sources of fungus gnats. ETA: Made some minor corrections....See Moreeileen_plants
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