new gardener needs advice and help

11 years ago

I'll start with the butternut squash.The 2 that I made soup with were great. Not quite ripe but a good sweet nutty flavor.

There are 6 more they look good but the vines are wilting or dying.I see no insects. I am tempted to pick everything, cook and freeze.Then get rid of all the squash plants. Or perhaps I should save them? The tomato plants are producing green fruit (only one is red and ripe so far) but the leaves are turning brown and krinkly. and falling off, from the bottom up. what should I do? I have planted several stringbean plants since I started last September. (7 or 8?) They have all died. They grow high then turn brown and dry up. Well those are my problems for now. Can anyone help?

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (7)

lgteacher
11 years ago
Knowing your planting zone would help. Tomatoes and green beans are summer vegetables, so they are winding down this time of year. If the squash plants still have some green leaves, they are making food for the plant, so leave them alone. The brown leaves won't recover, so remove them.

Here is a link that might be useful: What's Growing On?
digdirt2
11 years ago
Agree that without knowing your zone or location we can't really advise you on any of your issues as many are plant age and weather related. For many of us the summer garden is long done and we are into fall garden planting by now.

Plus are these plants in containers or in the ground? Makes a big difference. What is the name of the variety of the tomato plant? It could just be a determinate variety that has lived its course. What has been you feeding and watering routine?

Need much more information.

Dave
Related Discussions
New build. New gardener. Need advice please.
Q
Comments (11)
First of all, I'm not a landscaping pro or any type of expert, just a homeowner who likes maps and plans. So I'm wondering about the actual usable amount of space in your front yard. I see a distance of 24'6" (maybe 24'8"?) from the front of the lot to the corner of the window on the right. Is the front property line the location of the curb? Will there be a sidewalk along the street in front of the house? Will it be right along the street, or will there be a parking strip (grass area) between the street and sidewalk? One of the lines in the front yard is labelled "ACHD easement." That's your county's Highway Division. It's 8' from the front property line, so it's 16'6" from the front of the house. My county doesn't allow trees -- or even tallish shrubs -- in the easement, so ask before you plant. The other line -- 12' from the property line, so only 12' 6" from the corner of the window on the right -- is the utility easement. That's another area where planting large shrubs or trees might be restricted, if power lines/pipes are underground. And hopefully they won't put any unsightly boxes in front of the house. But in any case, there may be significantly less space in front of the house where you're free to landscape as you wish, than you expect. Boise's snowfall averages only 19" per year, but you might want to ask the neighbors how much of the street snow will be dumped in your yard.
...See More
New & Enthusiastic Gardener Needs Assistance/Advice on Lemon Tree
Q
Comments (7)
I'm beating John to this. A close up of the fruit would be helpful, but to me, clearly you've got a lovely Improved Meyer Lemon tree. A few clues for you: First, it's a bush :-) Meyer's like to form more of a bush-like shape, very common. And perfectly okay. Second clue is the shape and color of your lemons. Rounder, darker, richer yellow which will continue to ripen to yellow/orange, and their skin will be thinner and smoother than, say, a Eureka or Lisbon lemon. They are extremely juicy, less acidic and make the best lemonade ever. They are also fabulous to cook with, just Google "cooking with Meyer lemons" and you'll see all kinds of great recipes. Martha Stewart extolled the virtues of the Meyer lemon, and that has launched the Meyer lemon into culinary stardom. Your Meyer lemon will produce ripe lemons nearly year 'round, so be sure to pick them off as they ripen. I don't let mine get over-ripe (soft and more orangy in color). If you don't pick the ripe fruit, you can force your tree into an alternate bearing cycle, which you don't want. Also, you need to rip out all the grass from underneath the tree, out just beyond the edge of the canopy by about a foot (that's the drip line of your tree, and where the feeder roots exist.) Be sure your tree is on a drip and not being sprinkled by the lawn sprinklers. That will be eventual death of a citrus tree, they do not like to be constantly wet from a sprinkler, you can cause fungal infections on the trunk that way. Lastly, be sure you fertilize your Meyer regularly, at least 3 times a year (I fertilize my Meyer more frequently, 4 times a year, and with twice the amount of recommended fertilizer because they are SUCH prolific fruit bearers). Lastly, you may want to treat for Citrus Leafminer if this is an issue in your area. Just search our forum for Citrus Leafminer or CLM, tons of messages around that - I've probably posted over 30 times at least about CLM :-) And, you can add your USDA & Sunset Zone in your "Zone" section where you have "South Texas" (see my zone info). That helps us on the list know how to best advise you as well. Patty S.
...See More
New Heirloom Garden, Need tons of Advice.
Q
Comments (2)
Sounds like you are getting off to a great start with options. The max sun opportunity would be best; you can add shade. The best step towards soil prep would be a complete soil evaluation. Find out what is there, the pH, and level of organic matter. Look for organic ammendment sources so able to fill the soil test recommendations. Start a compost bin (or two) since always the best ammendment at any time. One important step will be planning a rotation. Do not plant the same species (tomato, carrot, etc) in the same spot. If you have the room try including some pea and/or beans, lettuces or spinach and perhaps a brassicas. These will offer a rotation based on family grouping. Look at at least a four year rotation, five if you have the diverse families to allow it. Do look at cover crops to add organic matter, reduce erosion, retain nutrients, control weeds and expand your rotation. Rye, clover, buckwheat or alfalfa are a few to consider; mow before seed production. The varieties should get a two or three year effort since each year may offer different weather. Find varieties that will grow well, or simply allow them to adapt to your region by saving seeds from those that do perform well. Look for a mulch source like straw to reduce your watering needs. Look into a drip system to maximize your water retention; I like the RainBird line. Finally, keeping it brief, (ha ha) start small with wide beds. Expand as you improve the soil. Good growing.
...See More
New to ground gardening, need advice please
Q
Comments (1)
Check out the link. Sprouts don't do well in zone 9a. If you want onions to bulb, make sure you plant short day varieties. Best of luck! Here is a link that might be useful: Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide
...See More
aurore908
Original Author
11 years ago
I'm not quite sure what zone this is. I think it is 8. I'm in the central area of Texas,north of Houston.My plantings are in above the ground boxes and containers. I planted with dirt from miracle grow and I water daily.With so many over100 degree days I often water 2 times with a hose on shower setting.The squash are from seeds of squash we ate. The tomato bushes are called Solar Fire-Heat tolerant hybrid. I am uploading 2 photos .Will I be able to save the things that are now growing?
zzackey
11 years ago
I think you are in zone 9. I'm in 8b. We get our first frost usually the first or second week of November, so you should have lots of growing time left. Check with your local agricultural center to find out more growing info.
glib
11 years ago
The squash succumbed to mildew probably. Solution: do not shower them, use drip or just place the hose under them and let it run. They do not do particularly well in containers. The tomatoes did the same, except they got some sort of wilt caused by their leaves being wet. Solution is the same, and they, too, do not do particularly well in containers. Beans do not make it when temps exceed 90. Grow other crops, such as okra, eggplant, pepper, melon, watermelon, or grow some beans well adapted to heat, such as cowpeas or yardlong. 100 is too high for most vegetables.
wally_1936
11 years ago
squash and tomatoes do not like the chemicals in our water as it ends up damaging the leaves. Soak-er hoses would do better or a deep water pick. Or you could build your own soak-er watering system. Just keep the water of the leaves of Tomatoes plants and any hairy leaf vegetable, etc
aurore908
Original Author
11 years ago
Thanks for all the great advice. Never thought about the water and the books don't mention that. So here is what I shall do. Leave the tomatoes for now because they are giving me tomatoes. (a few)plant new ones for the second season. Collect the5 squash and get rid of the vines. I will plant winter squash plants in a sunny spot behind the pots.I will also plant greens, spinach and broccoli in containers. Hope to do better. Thanks again. I am grateful for any advice given.

new gardener needs advice and help

Comments (7)

lgteacher

digdirt2

Related Discussions

aurore908
Original Author

zzackey

glib

wally_1936

aurore908
Original Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

new gardener needs advice and help

Comments (7)

lgteacher

digdirt2

Related Discussions

aurore908Original Author

zzackey

glib

wally_1936

aurore908Original Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

aurore908
Original Author

aurore908
Original Author