You shouldn't prune anything green from a plant in steep decline. 'Green' is the color of the pigment chlorophyll which is essential to photosynthesis, which is the process by which plants make their food - carbohydrate/ sugar. Also, the first phase of the shedding process is resorption, during which the plant reclaims and recycles nutrients and other biocompounds already paid for in terms of energy outlay. The plant has the look of having being chronically over-watered or suffering from a high level of dissolved solids in the soil. Your pot does have a drain hole - yes? If you've fertilized with an organic fertilizer or one deriving its nitrogen from urea, the damage could potentially be ammonium toxicity. Ideally. you would depot the tree, inspect for root rot, and correct if required by cutting all rot back to sound tissue. If you find no root rot, make sure your watering is under control. The oft parroted advice to water when the top 2.5-5cm of soil is dry is a recipe for over-watering. Unless your pot is 10cm deep or less, it doesn't matter a whit whether the top 5cm of the soil is dry or not. There are few if any fine roots there anyway; and if there are, it's proof of over-watering. What's important is the moisture level at the bottom of the pot, and you can determine that by using a 'tell'. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. You didn't say much about what else you're doing for the plant, culturally? Al

It doesn't look like the one coffee plant I saw which had very shiny, stiff holly-like leaves. And it seems odd to me for you to find it in a supermarket, since it is kind of an exotic houseplant. But, I googled it and found several images that do look like your plant. So, you may have found something special. It's attractive, in any case. Here is a link that might be useful: Photos of coffee arabica

The yellow comes before the brown and dry. It's a tad tough to figure out how to water when you've moved to a larger pot. For one thing, the water will go thru the new potting mix much more easily than through the original dry, cramped rootball. Other questions remain, especially about your statement that you watered before repotting. Are you certain the mix was moistened throughout? (With a cramped root ball, most likely it wasn't.) It's wise to soak the original rootball prior to repotting, whatever the reason. So, because the thing was potted up only 2 months ago, I think I'd tip the whole thing out -- over a tarp or newspaper to limit the mess -- and let the "new" potting mix fall away. Then I'd soak the original rootball and again re-pot. If you don't want to do that, I suggest you stick the entire pot in a bucket that has enough water to cover it. Wait until the bubbling stops, or a maximum of 20 minutes, then remove & drain.

i have 3 Kona plants i bought from hawaii through ebay about April-May 07. i first put them in 10 inch pots and indirect light by a sliding glass door and they were healthy but grew very slow and leaf sets were very close together for about 1 year (fed all-purpose soluble fert and superthrive) i moved in march and now have them in an east facing window so they catch direct morning sun and they took off! ive had 3-4 sets of new leaves since changing locations and they are HUGE! when i moved them to the new window i also stopped using fert and only feed them with fishtank water. (all houseplants will go bananas for fish tank waste/water) because of the growth spurt i wanted to check the roots and be sure they weren't confined(coffeeplants need deep pots because they have a main taproot like a carrot and 2 diagonal "anchor" roots- however ive also seen pictures of a very healthy arabica plant about 6 ft tall in a 1 gal container so...?)they where fine and since i had the roots out and exposed, i innoculated them with mycorrhizal fungi for its beneifts ( forms an organic symbiotic relationship with roots and cuts down on fertilizers/ pesticides.) can't wait to see what happens next!! i also had browning leaves in the beginning but it stopped on its own.every 2 weeks, i flood the plants for 30 min and drain(in the bathtub with fishwater), and give one 8 ounce glass of water in the weeks between. when a plant uses nutrients in the soil it will release a nitrogen gas and these gases are bad for the plant and roots. flooding displaces the gases and drags fresh oxygen down to the soil- so flood technique is good. however, when i took my plants out to innoculate the roots, i noticed severe soil compactation (most likely from the flood technique) and the dirt smelled SO bad. partly because i use stinky fish water but also because the dirt was way to tight to let those gases out. i added some sand in the soil and mixed/loosened in a giant bowl to help with drainage. soil mix is mostly all potting soil from wal-mart, sand, spent coffee grounds, cruched egg shells and one tsp. mycorrhizal fungi per pot. sorry so longwinded- i hope this helps. if you have more questions let me know. i'm fascinated and have done a lot of research on coffee plants and grapevines. happy to help :) find fungi cheap at http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/itemdesc.asp?ic=NEGRM16 i bought a pound(thats a lot)for $11 plus $8 shipping.