Lucky1: 1. If your apples had visible worms (larvae) in them, they were most likely those of the codling moth. Apple maggots leave small tracks in the fruit, but the actual larvae are so small as to be difficult to see. I checked out your profile to see where you live (always an important diagnostic fact), and north of Seattle is codling moth country, as is much of the Pacific Northwest. That is not to say, however, that you don't also have apple maggot infestation. 2. The best technique for the small grower to prevent infestations of codling moth, apple maggot fly, and/or plum curculio, is to bag the apples in ziplock sandwich bags immediately after thinning them. Bags should be installed after thinning the small apples to the one best per cluster (usually the king fruit in the middle), and you want to ensure a firm zipper seal right up to the stem on both sides to make sure the bag holds through wind and rain. Before installation, cut the bottom corners from the bags with a scissors to allow water drainage, and, after opening the bags, remove the excess plastic on top by slitting with the same scissors. If you get the bags on while the apples are still relatively small and undamaged, you can grow perfect apples without any spraying at all, all season long. I do it here every year. After picking, leave the apples in their bags for storage, and the apples will have less tendency to shrivel in refrigeration. If you have only one tree, you ought to be able to do the entire installation job in less than an hour, and you are good to go for the rest of the season. 3. Agree with Warren that the best preventative for aphids is dormant spraying with horticultural oil, and the most important time to apply it is just at bud break. Use a strong oil mix when dormant spraying -- about 4 ounces per gallon (2 oz./quart for smaller jobs), but if you still have aphids after leaves emerge, use the oil at a much lower rate of about 1 ounce/gallon. Oil spray is non-toxic, and you can apply it with a hand trigger sprayer if you don't have a larger pump-up. If you apply dormant oil spray to your plum tree, do the apple tree at the same time. Aphids can show up there too. 4. However, aphids were not responsible for the cracking of your plums, which can occur after a rain or heavy watering following a dry spell. Some fruit varieties (pluots come to mind) are so crack-prone that it seems they can crack with only high humidity. But if you have a dry summer, which is typical for your region, you might want to try watering more regularly and moderately, and avoid heavy watering when the soil is very dry. My brother, who lives in Belleview, seems able to grow the Italian plum without cracking, and without much care at all, and I don't think he waters the tree much. 5. For Warren: Recommending insecticidal sprays is always pretty spongy territory, which brings out many different views. As you have mentioned, natural pyrethrin is produced from flower blossoms, and is generally considered to be organically acceptable, though it is not non-toxic, and is EPA classified as a restricted use pesticide. Permethrin is a synthetic chemical pyrethroid which mimics the action of natural pyrethrins. While both these substances have been widely used, it is rare to see either of them available on the local retail market today, although many chemicals can be found online that seldom show up at Home Depot or Lowes. In addition to being restricted, natural pyrethrin is extremely expensive. Rotenone, once a favorite of the organic grower, is also difficult to find today, and when found it is in a 1% formulation instead of the 5% formulation sold in the past. Rotenone is produced from the ground cube resins of South American plants, and although Jicama contains some cube resins, that is not the usual commercial source of Rotenone. Rotenone in its powdered form was usually used as a dust. When mixed with water, the ground resins tended to quickly clog a sprayer head. Rotenone is also highly toxic to fish and other aquatic organisms, although much less toxic to humans or animals. This product can still be found, but is not a very practical alternative for a fruit tree spray. For the backyard fruit grower, oil spray, especially dormant application, is a much better alternative for aphid control. Sevin liquid and dust are still widely available, but I have not found this product to be very effective against either aphids or codling moth. Sevin is, however, very effective against Japanese beetles, and I still use it for that. The best feature of bagging apples is that you don't have to sort through the various pesticides or guess at their relative toxicity or effectiveness. You don't have to use them at all. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

This portion of the damage to the leaves on my plum tree applies, found at http://www.treehelp.com/citrus-insects-diseases/  I will make mention that the leaves are not curled, the outer edges of the new growth of leaves are chewed. Citrus Whitefly The citrus whitefly is a tiny white winged insect that is about 1/12 of an inch in length. It is most commonly found feeding on the underside of the tree’s leaves. When the branches are shaken, the Citrus whitefly will rapidly take flight and can be seen fluttering around the tree. In addition to feeding on the citrus tree, the whiteflies also lay their eggs on the underside of the leaves. When the eggs hatch, the juveniles are small oval, almost transparent larva, which attach themselves to the underside of the leaves and begin sucking the sap from the leaves. As a result, the tree’s leaves begin to curl and appear to be covered with a sticky, sooty mold substance. The mold like substance is actually honeydew that is excreted by the whiteflies because they are not able to metabolize all of the sugars contained in the leaf sap. The honeydew can often be seen dripping from the tree’s leaves and becomes an attractant to other insects such as ants. Over the growing season, several generations of whiteflies can emerge. To effectively control Citrus Whiteflies spray the tree with Bug Buster or Trounce. It is hard to achieve full control of the adult flies, but several sprayings of the tree with either Trounce or Bug Buster will significantly reduce the juvenile population and in doing so the overall population.

Apids hate liq. dish soap. Use only the cheap stuff(no dawn!- no degreaser)1 tsp per gal. of water in a sprayer,not in hot direct sun-try spraying very early morning Start spraying every 7 days at leaf break. Apids preproduce every 7 days. The soap will kill them, works for roses too. Once you have killed the cycle you can hose off the leaves and they will be clean and pretty. Hope this helps- Arizona PS don't spray the bees

Thanks Jean. I've read about doing that, but most of the trees are too far to reach with a hose.