I have sometimes suffered some phototoxicity apparently from applying oil between 10 and 14 days following Captan. The label of either the oil, Captan or both clearly warns of incompatibility but there is no written indication that residue from Captan could create a problem this much later. Only certain varieties, particularly Tomkins King have had this kind of response to so late an interval between Cap and oil- also pears are particularly sensitive. Oil probably wouldn't leave as lasting a residue-it evaporates very quickly, at least if you use some kind of summer oil. I like Purespray. The 10 to 14 day interval for PC protection is for Imidan only. Most other available materials will require a tighter interval and at least an additional spray unless you are very attentive or lucky. Imidan is exceptionally rain-fast for a non-systemic. The manufacturer doesn't even recommend a sticker. As far as historic PC protection results, you never can be sure what your chemicals are doing for you unless you see the PC in your orchard and then spray. In recent years in the Northeast PC has become somewhat less predictable on some sites based on my observations. In 2 of the last 4 years I have seen unsprayed sites produce apples without PC damage. These are large trees with lots of apples. PC often leaves the russeted old-strain Yellow Delicious alone as well. Too bad I don't much like them although they're a lot better than the new strains. PC disagrees with me and attacks those newer strains. Imidan is not nationally restricted and the government is stearing its use away from homeowners because they don't trust them to follow the label. It now has a 3-day REI, probably because it can be tracked indoors, especially off a dew covered grass. Once it is brought indoors it is almost as durable as DDT, outside it breaks down quickly. I wouldn't do any hand thinning of fruit until about 2 weeks after a spray myself which is very inconvenient. On varieties I'm almost sure will overcrop I remove a lot of flowers because I don't use chemical thinners. The Imidan label says not for residential use but according to code I now believe this means indoors, from what I read while studying for certification renewel. I called the NYDEC and was told that it is OK to use in resedential areas. In NY it is restricted to commercial applicators unless you are a commercial grower. In CT it is sometimes available from suppliers catering to commercial landscapers and is not restricted. It can legally be sent through the mail 1 package at a time. I can even have it sent to NY from another state even if I don't prove I'm licensed to use it here. Of course it would be illegal for me to use it if I wasn't licensed.

Hi Acie- Being a subscriber of the Harvestman 2-spray method... Immunox (not Immunox Plus which has an insecticide not rated for fruit) is the name of the spray that includes myclobutantil. Sometimes 3 sprays are needed because apple trees of a different variety and different locations will not all go through petal fall at the same time. Thus, you may get away with 2 sprays on an individual tree, but 3 sprays may be needed to adequately cover your whole orchard. Hi John- We're kinda talking about 2 different things in the same thread. Insecticide and Fungicides. Fungicides shouldn't cause any problems for the Bees. I suppose you could spray them earlier, but there wouldn't be much point. As for insecticides, I wouldn't spray any of those until after petal fall. I would think hort oil would be fine as long as it says so on the label. (some oils are not recommended as the tree progresses through the stages, so read your label). If it's caterpillars you're after, based on what you've told me, I'd recommend looking at a spray of "BT" which specifically targets them, and is benign to everything else (I believe). -Glenn

I guess it is all part of the learning process. I too will revisit my spray schedule for next year. Finally got pruning under control, CAR & fungal diseases whipped, this year got hammered by OFM and PC. It wasn't lack of spray I think, but timing. However, more sprays would have covered the timing. I am another noob that is going to put Triazicide back on the shelf and unpackage the Imidan. What put me to sleep through this is that this season was the 1st REAL crop load. I didn't have this kind of pressure before, because I didn't have this amount of fruit hanging from the trees. Don't know how they found me so freakin fast... My "tree children" are hard work.

Hi Ada, I don't spray anything and that has worked out well for us. Our trees are about 10 years old and the only thing that has impacted their performance is freezing weather or hail/wind that knocks small fruit off the plants. I don't grow apples so can't advise you very well there, but you should google and read about what you need to do to prevent cedar apple rust. If you want to read about an organic or low-spray program for peaches (nectarines are treated the same), check out the ATTRA guide linked below. Good luck, Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: ATTRA Organic/Low-Spray Program