I did a search for it and here is what it said about application: "Application: Dilute 2-8 oz/gal. of water depending upon infestation. Apply every 7-14 days as needed. Apply enough liquid per plant to wet entire surface. Give special attention to underside of plant. Will not stain. Crop-specific instructions included." Does it have copper or lime sulfer in it? I am no expert at this. I used copper last year and was happy with the results. I wish I sprayed today but it said it might rain, so I chickened out. Too bad. Kathy

if by the looks of your layers you have no mucky layers leave it be lots of food in your bedding to last months if need be best advice in a bin that looks like that is to leave them - w/o any ammonia/sulfur type aroma yer ok you look to have lots of room between bins? i'd be tempted to consolidate - just make sure you have decent drainage to help move excess moisture into your catchment bin best advice i ever received - we can kill worms with food faster than neglect. you look to have lots of fine bedding. keep sure to allow sufficient drainage. worms will mediate themselves as long as they have a decent place to run to. you have lots of good leaf material. i'm trying the same this spring with lots of leafy type bedding. best advice i know - leave them be. interesting tid bit though - pnsb's photo synthetic non-sulfur bacteria thrive on damp leaves. i only dabble in 'em'. something to consider though if a fan of soil biology. my bookmarks are so disorganised http://sites.google.com/site/windintheroses/em so much stuff online the last few years

Insist that he finish (including cleaning) before you close. Construction clean up can be expensive! If you still need another coat of paint after Wednesday, getting that done (without getting paint on stained woodwork) can also be pretty expensive. For the big jobs that can't be done until spring (landscaping, final A/C testing, etc.) maybe having title company hold 1.5 times the bid price will work. But, make SURE you ask what happens if the builder DOESN'T come back and finish in a reasonably timely manner and that "timely manner" is defined. Will the title company release the funds to you if you wind up having to hire someone else to do the job? Or does the language say that, once the big jobs are complete, Title company will release the funds to the builder? If so, builder just has to wait for you to finally get fed up and pay someone else to do the job then he can waltz into title company and say "job's finished, pay me." And you get stuck paying twice! Make sure that after a certain date, you have the option of hiring someone else to do the jobs and then the money will released to YOU to pay them - including an additional 20% to pay you for doing builder's job of hiring and overseeing the work! And, for the little jobs, is title company going to want to bother policing builder's performance? For smaller jobs, the only alternative I would agree to would be if builder was willing, in writing, to allow me (not bank or mortgage company) to hold back least 2 to 3 times as much money as I thought it would cost to hire other people to come in and do the jobs AND he agreed that after a limited period of time (say 6 weeks maximum) any jobs that were not competed, I had the right to hire anyone I wanted to finish them and, when all work was done, then builder got paid whatever was left over, if any, after I deducted all costs for finishing the work plus an additional 20% to pay for my trouble. And, all I had to provide to builder was a copy of receipts for materials and labor paid out to justify what I deducted. I don't think you're being at all picky expecting that your new house won't have cracked shingles or cracked tiles or gouges in the bench of your mudroom. The house should be as near to perfect when you move in as it will ever be. Maybe your builder needs to postpone his trip out of town???

Dekeoboe- The pony wall will be the same depth as the full wall, so I don't understand what you mean by a dangerous corner. What I planned is for the O/M and an extra foot be a 7' wall, and then the pony wall. This would allow a bit of storage (I know...dust catcher! LOL) above the oven/microwave and provide a 'back' of sorts, to that end of the plate rack. And, it would make the 'open area' about 8' long, with the range in the middle. Here's another drawing...maybe it will make a little more sense. Oh, and if you're worried about the corner sticking out past the back of the O/M...I'm making the pony wall even with the full wall, so it will be an 'L' but all even on the keeping room side. Does that make sense? From Lavender Lass farmhouse pictures And in the overall plan... From Lavender Lass farmhouse pictures I made these a little bigger, so hopefully they're easier to read! And, I changed the 'wing walls' between the kitchen and keeping room, so that the 'left' side is 2' and the 'right' side is 5'...what do you think?