How to root a ficus cutting?
grrr4200
11 years ago
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agogrrr4200
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root over rock - how big should ficus be?
Comments (2)If you're asking in terms of what kind of rock - not sure. I have a couple of nice pieces of granite that have lots of mica in them... hope that answers your question! Thanks for your reply....See MoreHow to: Propagation of Ficus Lyrata by Leaf cutting.
Comments (38)That's not the only way to propagate actually. My parents own a microbiology laboratory. Plant tissue culture is a way to grow just about any kind of plant from just a singular plant cell, though the most commonly used type of cells in this process are meristematic tissue such as the root tip and axillary bud tips. All plants have this kind of tissue. To have such a narrow-minded field of thought is a detriment only to yourselves. Tissue culture is actually better anyway, so you don't have to destroy an entire bud and root tissue is always plentiful. It also has a higher success rate than when you just try to propagate at home. The tissue culture process can easily be replicated at home as long as a sterile environment is provided. All you really need is a medium to suspend the tissue culture in such as agar, in a temperature controlled environment. Though the suspension medium differs greatly from what kind of plant is being produced. Orchids, for example, require higher levels of malto-detrixin and banana powder to successfully grow. Since there's not much tissue culture done of Ficus lyrata, it would be necessary to find the right suspension medium that yields the highest rates of cell division....See MoreHow to root Ficus cuttings?
Comments (7)I wish you'd have noted the tree species? The cuttings can be almost any size if they're from a plant that is growing well & has lots of stored energy. I have rooted cuttings larger than broomstick size and know that in the south, there is virtually no limit on the how large the cuttings can be - 6" diameter on many species is common. In your zone, cuttings taken just after summer solstice will work best. They have a high carbohydrate content and there is still plenty of good sun left in Jul-Sep to help build roots and store energy for winter. They actually should have the highest carbohydrate content around mid-Sep, but if taken now, light could be an issue, but don't let that stop you. From what part of the plant is difficult to answer w/o being rather technical. You want wood that is ontogenetically young, which really doesn't have anything to do with chronological age. This wood would be found close to the trunk & low on the tree, but it should have been getting good light exposure (again - the carbohydrate/stored energy thing). For your purposes (and other than large-leafed species like elastica & lyrata), take 6 inch cuttings that are well lignified (woody). It's ok if they terminate in summer wood (this years growth). They should only have a couple of leaves on them to reduce transpirational loss. If the leaves are large, just cut them in half across the veins with a scissors or something sharp. If I start a cutting in the summer, I never tent it or use rooting hormone - I just put it in bonsai soil (just because that's always the handiest) in bright shade & keep the soil moist. You should root in 100% perlite or something like Turface or Espoma Soil Perfector - something very airy. The callusing part will vary by plant, but since root primordia initiation is usually along the entire stem below the soil line - it's not necessary. Don't start in water. Water roots are very different than those that form in an aerated medium, are very brittle, and more often than not are unable to make the transition from water to soil, so die anyway. The effect is that you've wasted a bunch of time & will need to hope the cutting still has enough stored energy to make new roots that are adapted to soil. Give them as much light as you can w/o exposing them to direct sun. I have a bench on the north side of the garage where I set cuttings. It is shaded by the building walls, but has full exposure to the sky. This is ideal for starting cuttings. Indoors - place under a fluorescent shop light (or equal - incandescents will cook them, btw) with the light no more than 6" away from remaining foliage & keep soil just moist (not soggy). That cover it? Al...See MoreGrow ficus cutting with roots on both ends
Comments (2)A fig cutting laid horizontal an inch or two under the soil will grow roots on the correct end only. A cutting with no buds can still grow using advantageous buds. Al...See Moregrrr4200
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
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11 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
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11 years agolast modified: 9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agohenrikn
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)