Cabbage loopers, cabbage worms or just plain little green caterpillar. Common pest of plants particularly on brassicas. Hand picking works if you can get them all otherwise BT (Thuricide or Dipel) are a biological control. Covering plants with row covers often keeps them away, but it is too late at this point.

stones throw: Perhaps the reason your little green worm infestation has not generated much comment is that the answer seems so obvious: Spray them with something. It does not help that no one knows whether you are in Alaska or Arizona; there are lots of places in zone 6a. Few of us here are entomologists and qualified to identify little worms on the basis of their color, but if they are eating holes in leaves, you want to be rid of them whatever they are. Whether they will need to be controlled each year may depend in part on whether you control them now. Allowing them to have their way is practically guaranteed to increase their numbers. Whether you decide to use a common insecticide or a biological control is up to you. There are several insecticides that would be effective and easy to apply to small trees with a 1-quart trigger sprayer, and they are readily available in the nursery sections of bigbox stores, and most specialized nurseries. Ask the staff what they recommend. Bt is itself a living organism, which takes longer than chemicals to have an effect on caterpillar type creatures, but can also be effective if it is important to you to avoid chemicals of any kind. But Bt has a short shelf life, so make sure the stuff you buy is fresh. Bt cannot be stored and used from year-to-year as its potency quickly degrades. Bt is also most effective when used early in the outbreak of caterpillar infestations. I don't suppose it makes much difference, but it isn't clear from your message whether the trees in question were purchased in 7-gallon pots then planted in the ground, or planted in 7-gallon pots after purchase. If you purchased potted trees from a local nursery, that same nursery ought to be able to advise you on controlling pests of fruit trees. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

Definitely sounds like rose slug. In most cases, after a couple weeks, the good bugs come along and eat 'em up, so you don't really need to do anything as drastic as use Bayer 2-in-1. Most of us either hand-squeeze them or pick them and toss them into the grass away from the rose. Seriously, the good bugs usually finish the job for the rose gardener, so the Bayer isn't needed. Besides, the Bayer 2-in-1 kills off all bugs, both the good and the bad bugs, and not just the rose slugs. (Don't use the Bayer 3-in-1 either--even worse!). Kate

Probably something like cabbage loppers but I'm not sure. I haven't seen many this year, I think they usually get me worst when the rains come though. Anyway, to control leaf eating caterpillars you want to use BT, bacillus thuringensis. Dipel Dust or Thuricide are products I know of out there for it. Last I tried, Lowes didn't have Thuricide but HD did. Ya mix it up according to the directions and spray the plants well (drawback is you don't want to be straying it during or right before the heat of the day which might leaves you spraying in the dark.) Dipel dust might be easier if you can find it but I haven't found it here in FL. Anyway, the caterpillars have to eat some of it for it to be effective. It is a bacteria specific to the guts of leaf eating caterpillars and it will give them a bad belly ach, they quit eating and eventually die. It requires re-application after rain if the caterpillar problem is still present. There are similar products that attack mosquitoes (mosquito dunks) and I believe there is the milky spore that can be used for the under ground grubs but I've never tried that.) I've used Thuricide and mosquito dunks and they are pretty safe as far as pesticides go. They do not hurt beneficial insects and they are safe enough for use in/around an aquaponics system with fish and bio-filter bacteria. Here is a link that might be useful: TCLynx