I think perhaps the gray dark "eggs" you were seeing was actually the frass, the poop, from the caterpillars as the eggs are usually white or yellow or gold (depending on the species). And Brussel sprouts have several different pests that aren't always common to cabbage and other cole crops so IDing the actual problem pest is the first step when it comes to deciding on the treatment. Check out the site linked below for more details. As to the row covers, I didn't say it was too late although you would have to treat the plants extensively first or you'd just be sealing the bad guys in. But you indicated above that you couldn't or didn't want to use them. If you can then they are the best all-around prevention/control tool IMO. BS are self-supporting so a tent drape of row cover over the whole plant and weighted down at the bottom (big enough to rise as the plant grows) works well. You can also just drive a stake beside each plant and tent the cover over it. Just be sure to use something light weight like the insect barrier Reemay so you don't trap too much heat inside too. Hope this helps. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: IPM Control of Brussel Sprout Pests and Diseases

Light oil sprays at a concentrate of no more than 2% ten to fourteen days after full bloom. Actually we have a service that monitors flight with Degree Growing Days and tells when to spray, but those days I think would put you close. You can put out traps. We did use Sunspray, but I think we switched two years ago to a generic. I can't think now what it is, but Sunspray would be fine. Then put it on again after 10 days. It works best against against scales and aphids and other things. An organic orchard can just get buggy. Eventually the predators will move in, but until they do you can have small problems. The oil sets back the bad bugs without killing the good bugs. An organic orchard is neat, because you will see Praying Mantis and others. Won't see those in a nonorganic block. But sometimes you can have an outbreak of things like aphids and it takes awhile for the predators to catch up. That is where the oil comes in. An interesting thing about summer oil is the Phds don't think it does a great deal against CM, but the old timers think it helps enough against CM to warrant putting it on. I am beginning to wonder if we won't eliminate the oil and go with Entrust, GV and lures. I think we will. I think others already have. Entrust has to go on about every seven days. It is expensive and for your purposes you would be better off with Delegate. My buffer has been Guthion, but that is going the way of the dodo bird. You really need to check out Delegate. I have no knowledge of attract and kill as these have never been approved for certified organic. My knowledge is from a year ago so things might have changed.

I just received this from the "Chemical Production Manager" at APTIV: I just spoke with our President and Chief Entomologist, and he informed me of the following: "The Intercept D is actually perfect for the codling moth, and has been proven to be a trap with higher capture rates than many other traps. The moths fly through many small opening when negotiating foliage in trees, and this is no problem. In comparative testing with a range of different traps, the opening in the Intercept D traps creates a natural plume shape for the pheromone odor trail that is more natural than the plume coming out of traps with a wider opening. The is also the reason for the Intercept W-CM sticky liner (not ordered by many customers) which is designed to have a much smaller opening than a standard Intercept-W liner. For CM, this is an important issue, not so with oriental fruit moth. I hope this explanation is sufficient. Otherwise, you could always use a standard Intercept-W, or the large sized Intercept-ST (plastic delta)." So, he's saying that even though the Type "A" traps have been "developed using extensive wind tunnel studies to determine the optimal plume structure of the released pheromone", the type D is better for ^codling^ moths, and indeed I confirmed that the type W does come in a special version for ^codling^ moths. It never would have occurred to me that a male codling moth would detect the shape of a plume, but I suppose it makes sense that the hole in the trap be not too much larger than a female codling moth. So, I'll use the traps as is. The expert has spoken. Don, I'm still interested in your plastic bagging.

Hi, Catherinet! I love this moth! I keep waiting for larvae to show up on some of their host plants that grow in and around my yard. I'm not too surprised you are seeing them now due to our early warming trend this year. I've attached info from Bill Oehlke's website, which is my "go to" website for sphinx moth species. Aren't they gorgeous? Susan Here is a link that might be useful: Hyles lineata aka White-Lined Sphinx