Well if it was below freezing in your barn, and the roots were exposed to those temperatures, they could be dead. Oh, they were in pots, they should be fine. Here is a set of directions from Stark brothers who sell greenhouse stuff: Definitely put them in the ground this year! Acclimate Plants grown in a greenhouse must be acclimated carefully before planting or placing them outdoors. This is especially true in hot or sunny locations. Many species should never be grown in full sun. Before purchasing a plant, learn about its sun requirements. Knowing the plants requirements can avoid any damage to the plant by incorrectly giving it the wrong conditions. If your plant has been grown in a greenhouse, here are a few steps we recommend you follow: â After purchasing your plant, place it outside in a sheltered, shady spot or on your back porch. â Leave it there for 3-4 hours and gradually increase the time spent outside by 1-2 hours per day. â Bring the plants back indoors each night. â Water it regularly to keep the plant moist. â Occasionally spray the leaves with water. â After 2-3 days, move the plants from their shady spot into morning sun, returning them to the shade in the afternoon. â After 7 days, the plants should be able to handle the outdoor temperatures, if they stay around 50 degrees F. â After 7-10 days, your plant is ready to be planted in its permanent location. Try to do this on a cloudy day and be sure to water the plant well. â Observe foliage daily. If any type of leaf discoloration occurs, put the plant back into filtered light and attempt this step at a later date. â Special care must be taken to avoid burning the leaves. These are general guide recommendations. Some plants take longer than others to acclimate. This post was edited by Drew51 on Sun, Apr 7, 13 at 16:01

Last year I planted Semi Dwarf Van Cherry tree in my back yard. This year I have noticed that almost all the new leaves are curled and inside of the leaves, is a colonies of small black bugs. The size of the bugs is nearly as big as a pin head. They do not move much and are practically stick to the leaves. I consulted several business hear who deals in plants, trees, flowers and vegetables. I went to big one among them. I talked to the woman and she told me that I can't do any thing now and the tree should have been sprayed in spring before buds start appearing. She told me that it is a fungus. I believed her and convinced myself that I have to wait until the next spring. I told my wife since she is very passionate about this tree b/c it was gift to her on last year's mother day. She suggested that if it a fungus the why not to try vinegar (one used at home). I sprayed the bugs with vinegar. It was done on June 6/11. what it did, the leaves almost burned dry but these nasty bugs still are there on the new tiny leaves. Due to heavy rain the vinegar has washed off. I want your expert opinion. I have noticed very few lady bugs and never had an idea that they eat this black bugs.

I guess it would make sense that the bush cherries would suffer from the same afflictions as the tree ones, but the UW Saskatchewan was bragging up how pest and disease-free their cherries were there on the prairies, so I was hoping they were something magic that would be that way here in the Midwest, too. I have no idea if Gurneys/HF/Gardens Alive will offer the other Romance cherries in 2012, but I keep hoping, just as I keep hoping my Lapins, Evans, Kristin, Meteor, and 3 Carmen Jewel bushes will eventually get some cherries after several years of waiting. I really LOVE sweet cherries, so don't know how one could improve on them. Northwoodswis

Cherries vary one kind to another on resistance. In our area research at Mt Vernon WA has listed recommended ones more well suited. I went for that which is why I had long ago went with Surefire and the sweet cherry Early Burlat. Over the years my Burlat had been as disease free as the Japanese types of flowering cherries (shirofugen, prunus osima zakura etc.) And superior to others in my neighborhood. One main problem is the flowers bloom to early on the hill heights area in Vancouver WA (above Portland) and even though the bloom is rain resistant the bees are not pollinating during poor conditions and thus little fruit. I must hand pollinate. Other than the above remedy of selecting the right ones and about later bee friendly blooming ones you could try the idea of hand pollinating. I always set fruit on Burlat from Van cherry from my little greenhouse. In your case a Burlat flower from one you could graft to CJ tree could be dried indoors, possibly store it in fridge for a few days, and applied to CJ flowers. Even though nothing that I know of can be found to spray on to prevent infections you can still "wait and see". By that I mean to get your tree to over about 5 years of age because age 2-4 is the most prone years according to tests done West of the Cascades in Oregon.