Something to keep in mind is that damping off syndrome is pretty much entirely avoidable. It does take a little detective work, some preparation, and a bit of manipulation of the environment. I grow three or four hundred plants from seed every spring, starting them in a couple of heated (and crowded) seed flats and transplanting into plastic cell packs shortly after germination. Strictly garage/backyard horticulture, by the way. I have never had an issue with damping off and I have never used chemicals of any kind except for bleach when I am preparing my plastic flats and cell packs, which I reuse year after year. The primary reason for my disease free seedlings is, I believe, my selection of a very coarse textured planting medium. Even in the germination flats, I use a fine textured germination medium only as a dusting on top of the coarser stuff. I cover my seeds very loosely and only until the seeds have germinated. The plug is pulled on my heating cables, too, as soon as the seeds have germinated. The ambient temperature of the room ranges from 50-60 degrees. Sometimes cooler! I'll run a small fan near the seedlings at all times. Those who seem to have an on-going problem with damping off are probably using a very fine textured germination mix, keeping the environment too warm, not providing air circulation, and watering too frequently. If the environmental issues aren't faced head on, then chemicals really won't help. It is sort of like solving a murder mystery, lol. Just remember that it IS preventable. Now, what can we do to narrow the possible causes for you? Tell me more about your set-up and let us play detective with you.

Hi there, I am also looking for waterproofing help: We have a 1942 house in the DC area that has a seepage/moisture problem. While we have never seen major water intrusion, we have only lived in the house for 2.5 months and realize we are peeling back a very bad onion that was pretty on the outside and failing in the middle. It began with mold, and we thought that we'd solved the problem by installing a sump pump/drainage system. However, they totally messed things up, with us having to identify when they were drilling weep holes in the wrong place etc (they were rated #2 on angie's list, btw). At any rate, we cannot do much outside excavation since there is only about 35" of space between our exterior wall and a public alley on one side, and about 4' of space on the other until our neighbor's property. So, my question: Now that we have spend $7K on an interior "system" that may/may not properly drain the block walls (with some areas of brick), we are faced with interior waterproofing of the problem walls. What is the best interior waterproofing application for the walls? Bituminous inside? Elastomeric? CWM? We have been told that the only reason we don't have major structural issues (no big vertical cracks, etc.) is because we have softer mortar so the foundation can move; as a result, we have been cautioned against using very solidifying/inflexible applications, so I wonder if CWM is one? So, what should we use? And do we have to clean off the efflorescence (which is substantial) entirely with acid first? I am worried that will eat through the mira drain that is against the wall, and the pipe that runs below the concrete floor within the gravel. Any help is awesome, I'm totally overwhelmed (b/c this is not our only problem...) Thanks!

Wow Lynda, you did great at the Restore! I did browse through one last year out of curiosity. I saw a beautiful antique dresser that was already on hold. I'm sure the antique dealers keep a close eye on those places. You never know when you'll hit it right. Thanks for the idea. Flo, we have someone who would install the LVP for a dollar a board so that's amazing versus our doing it ourselves or paying $3 or so a square foot in NJ for the install as per one of the stores we went into said. We did lay down laminate flooring by ourselves in our family room about 15 years ago and did well It is an easy install- but our basement is much bigger than our family room and we are 15 years older. As the years go on I'm not sure if our bodies will pay a price with all that kneeling and bending over etc! I am waiting for the Flooret samples, but will keep my eye on Flor.com maybe for another room in the future! Once we decide I'll need help with paint colors unless SW Alabaster will work with all. Flooret Arbor, Brenwick or Kingswood

I think you're fine with the extra rain as long as you have a fast draining media like the 511. They won't drown or anything and one reason why I use it. And once a week watering should be very good. 511 dries from the top down so letting things go several days between watering gives the roots a chance to develop better than if kept continually wet. The cold shouldn't bother the newer seedlings. Mine that are inside a couple to three months, can get confused to whether it's the end of season or what. lol After the establishment phase, plants enter the 'Rapid growth phase' and ideally, you want them to have as close to optimal conditions as you can to produce the best results. But 40's shouldn't hurt your plants as long as the daytime temps are getting into the high 60's & 70's. You just have to work these things out for yourself, in your climate and length of season. Carrying plants in and out of the house and up and down stairs is a pain, that's why I just keep things inside until outside temps cooperate and I can leave them out for the season. Again, it's just too cold right now to have anything that's growing out side. That may change in a couple of weeks though. :-) Most of what's in my yard is still fairly small, with more coming in the mail next week. It takes time and patience and you can't worry if you get your hands dirty lol. Thanks for the update! :-)