Those reading this thread grow plants in media that range from sticky, extremely water retentive, and low in oxygen when they are saturated, to media that remain friable (uncompacted), highly oxygenated, and hold NO perched water when they are completely saturated. We cannot simply blame poor plant performance on watering habits, as I illustrated upthread. Neither, can we consider plant/water relationships without considering the media. When we blame poor plant performance on over-watering, what are we saying? On one hand, we might be saying that we are applying too much water to the soil, but is that really accurate? I don't think so. I think it's much more accurate to say the soil is holding too much water. Doesn't this then, shift the responsibility for root rot issues and poor plant performance to the media instead of the hand controlling the water can? The argument might be raised that all you need to do is water less - problem solved .....right? Not so fast. What happens when we water less, in small sips? Salts accumulate in soils from the fertilizers we apply and, as this happens, plants have increasing difficulty absorbing water and the nutrients dissolved in water from the soil. This is stress, and it assuredly affects the plants vitality and diminishes potential growth. Yes, you are able to work around this issue of accumulating salts by eliminating them from the soil with thorough flushing - frequently, but that is a time consuming process and several extra steps. Since the reason you need to flush the soil is because it is too water retentive in the first place, flushing it places the plant at risk for root rot - unless you take still additional steps to make sure that doesn't occur - like depotting the plant and placing it on newspaper over night so the water saturating the soil can be wicked into the newspaper and evaporate. So it sounds good to say it's a watering issue, and not a soil issue, but we can clearly see that it is not a watering issue. Lets look at the other end of the soil range for a moment. Consider a soil with particles that are large enough that the soil holds no water between soil pores. The descriptive terminology would be that it 'holds no perched water'. You can water this soil every hour of every day, yet it holds no water between it's particles. It does. however, hold plenty of water INSIDE the particles - water plants can easily access as they need it. As the plants access this water, their roots are totally surrounded by plenty of air - even immediately after you water to saturation. Even if you water again 10 minutes later, all the water drains from the pores between particles and air returns to the entire volume of soil. How do we need to treat plants in the heavy soil? We need to water them carefully, because if we over-water the soil remains saturated, anaerobic (airless) conditions prevail, and root function/metabolism suffers, the plant is stressed and grows with reduced vitality. While, and because we are watering in small amounts to prevent soil saturation, salts are accumulating and additionally stressing plants. This occurs in every planting you cannot water properly because the medium is too water-retentive. How do we treat plants in the porous soil? We water them until about 10-15% of the water we applied comes out the drain and move on to the next plant - no worries - repeat in a few days. From what I offered, it's easy to see that soils and watering are inextricably related, and that it is actually the SOIL that dictates how you are able to water. Roots die when subjected to saturated (anaerobic) conditions. They don't all die at the same time; they die incrementally with the finest of roots - the workhorses - dieing first, larger roots following finer roots as the length of exposure to anaerobic conditions increases. This process begins quickly, even if you can't see it, within hours of watering, and doesn't stop until the water in the soil is used up and air returns to the soil. At that point, the lost roots begin to regenerate. This is very stressful, and extremely expensive to the plant in terms of energy outlay. The energy the plant must put into root regeneration would have went to blooms, fruit, more leaves, branch extension, or an increase in biomass. It simply is bad for the growth process. These problems are entirely eliminated in soils at the other end of the spectrum, so 'no', we cannot so easily say that it is over-watering that causes these issues when in fact, they are directly related to soil choice. Heavy (water-retentive) soils are convenient and readily available everywhere, and there are the strategies I touched on to help you cope with the difficulties encountered when using them, but the price of convenience, as you see, is often measured in plant vitality. Al

We did not get pics of the flowers but I think the leaves on the mystery plant are more pointed at the end (top) and are toothed which the Frangula Caroliniana does not seem to be. The leaves on mine are not glossy, it was raining today when I took pics. My daughter described the flowers as white and green and very very small, with a little central white ball. Nothing to write home about. The bark of this shrub/tree is bumpy and kind of brown on one side (maybe the bottom) and green on the other (top?) I will post a pick of the inside of stalk in a follow up.

Rub the leaves, Corsican Mint smells strongly of mint when you rub it. There is no mint odor from baby tears. Visually they are pretty similar. Baby tears has smaller leaves that can rise up from the ground more.

Could somebody please help me with this impossible plant! =( I have been trying to grow Baby's Tears (Soleirolia soleirolii) on and off for many years now. I have tried growing it from cuttings, I have tried buying a thriving pot of it from a nursery, I have tried growing it in full sun, muted sun, partial sun, full shade, I've tried indoors, outdoors, in doorways, I've tried everything from submerging it, to well watered, to lightly watered, to no water at all, and everything between, and for the life of me I can not seem to keep this plant alive for more than a week or two no matter what I try!! I'm in Australia, the temperatures here range from a little below 0C/33F in the coldest part of a winter night, to about 45C/113F at the peak of a hot summer. Average temp year round would be between 10C/50F to 20C/58F. I have plenty of locations available for every possible degree of sunlight, indoor or outdoor. If anybody can tell me what the optimal conditions for keeping one of these alive, or what I can do to minimize my chances of killing my next attempt, I would be very grateful! Thanks in advance! Here is a link that might be useful: Vaelor's Keep