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Fruit & Orchards

Need help identifying apple leaf problem

12 years ago

Long time lurker, first time poster.

With the help of information I have received here, I have done well with strawberries, raspberries and blueberries for the past several years. Regular posters like Glenn, Olpea, Harvestman and Scott should know the positive impact they have on many backyard orchardists like me. I have avoided many pitfalls by reading of your experiences. Thank you.

A couple years ago, I added some dwarf peaches and a few apples. I have followed Harvestman's suggested basic spray for apples/peaches from a post on Dec 18, '09 with success. Three sprays, Immunox, Captan, insecticide. My last spray this year was #2 (petal fall) done about two weeks ago. I live in Illinois about an hour SW of Chicago. Zone 5.

I would appreciate some input on a leaf issue I am having. Some leaves are yellowing along the vein of the leaf. (See the first two photos) A few leaves have also turned dark brown at the edges (See the last photo) This has happened suddenly and has worsened over the past two days. Weather here has been cold and very wet. I have other trees that are unaffected. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks again for your time. Ken

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Comments (3)

fruitnut Z7 4500ft SW TX
12 years ago
Just to get things started I'd venture to guess that your leaf issues are weather related. The older apple leaves are showing some stress but the newer ones look good. I think your trees will be fine when it dries and warms up.

Is your soil a bit on the wet side?
myk1
12 years ago
When mine do that or similar it seems to be too much rain. I assume you have the same clay I do, it's fertile but too much rain binds the nutrients.

I have another apple that has the browning leaves plus it's wilting. I figured a mole or something because it's over an old dug out elm stump. So I dug around looking for hollows, flooded every one I found. The tree got worse. A couple days without rain and it was good again.
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They may not show signs now because the cedar galls have fallen off the tree. This disease cycle starts in the early spring, when its wet. Its also possible the spores have traveled in from up to a mile away. The only true avoidance is to spray at the right time. Even "resistant" varieties are not immune to large outbreaks. I do 2 sprays of Immunox in the spring after petal fall and 2 weeks after, and my trees dont show anything. A neighbor 3 doors down has Winesap and Red Delicious and they're covered in CAR and Scab. Just remember, organic material (copper, sulfur) doesnt mean its not dangerous. The chemicals I've sprayed are off the tree by now with rain. Are you a certified organic orchard? This post was edited by megamav on Fri, Aug 16, 13 at 18:34
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Once a week in a pot isn't enough water. It's probably dried out and the water is just running thru. Set it in a saucer such that you can hold water about an inch deep around the bottom of the pot. That will allow the media to rewet by wicking up from the bottom. If it is from being too dry it should look better in a couple days. After it gets going again don't drown it by standing in water all the time. Let it dry out some between waterings but not so much that it droops again.
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Cedar- apple rust? Just a guess since I have never had it (luckily). Spray with myclobutanil (Rally, Nova, or Immunox fungicide) early in the season. For me that means 2 applications in May and I never have the problem. Do you lots of eastern redcedars growing nearby?
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antlers
Original Author
12 years ago
Guys,

Thank you for taking the time to reply. My yellowing leaves have worsened but at least it doesn't appear that any new leaves are involved. I do have some clay but my trees are planted in raised berms so drainage is not an issue but we have been getting a lot of rain. The weather is still crap but supposed to warm up and get sunny by Memorial Day.

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