See link on pear scab (aka blackspot). As I mentioned earlier, immunox should take care of it, although as the article says, it's not as severe or devastating as apple scab. Regarding your apples, I posit leafhopper b/c the upper leaves of your apples are curled, a result of the leafhoppers sucking the sap out of them. If you can kill the leafhopper nymphs (often seen on underside of leaves) it will be easier to control damage in future. Insecticidal soap, pyrethrins, and imidacloprid are all apparently effective, esp. the last as it's systemic in leaves -ie suck the sap, and bang your dead:).Honestly, you could probably ignore all of it and be OK, as they're not devastating issues. Here is a link that might be useful: blackspot

Transplant: There are some summer apples that you could expect to be ripe or nearly ripe at the end of July, but most of the high-quality table apple varieties would ripen in late September or even into October in your climate zone. In other words, you appear to have a completely normal situation there, with apples a little more than half grown. It would be nice to have an overall look at the tree, but from the closeup you provide, it appears someone took the trouble to thin that apple cluster to one fruit. Whoever did that, good move. I hope they did it to the others too. The shape of your apple says Golden Delicious, Criterion, or something like that, but could also be a Japanese apple variety called Mutsu (aka Crispin) that is a cross of Golden Delicious and the Japanese Indo variety. I have a Mutsu tree in my orchard, and the apples look approximately like yours. They are also at about the same stage of development. The particular apple in your photograph has been visited by the codling moth (right side), which means that when it is finally ripe it will be wormy around the core. There are also touches of cedar apple rust on the leaf just above it. The CAR does not appear to be a serious case, since it has not affected the fruit, but if the other apples also show codling moth damage you may want to look into bagging the apples in ziplock sandwich bags to keep them at bay. You can find extensive discussions of bagging apples by using keywords like "bagging apples", both on this forum and with a Google search. But that would be for next season, since apples should be bagged soon after they are thinned, which would be about the end of May where you live. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA

Applenut...that was one of my thoughts, to graft some of my other trees to it, never really did it before but I ' ll try anything once. I just wasn't sure if this tree is the problem and all grafts that are attach to it will grow the same like a rock with no taste. You can't even bite this apple without losing some teeth. Just thought maybe I should start over in this space where the tree is now. Thanks

See my response to your orange tree post. Patty S.