Snow mold generally occurs when it snows early in the season and the grass is covered before the ground is frozen. New grass is more susceptible, and late season fertilizer applications (November)on new grass also make you more susceptible to snow mold. This year we have had a lot of snow but it was later in the season when the ground was frozen (well it was in CT). Theres's nothing you can do now, so don't worry about it, wait till spring, then you can worry.

From Purdue Unv. Turf Tips 03/08/2010 http://www.agry.purdue.edu/turf/tips/2010/03082010_snowmold.html Snow mold damage Melting snows revealed some significant snow mold damage. As you know there are two types of snow mold diseases, gray snow mold (aka Typhula blight) and pink snow mold (Microdochium patch). Although they create similar symptoms (circular patches of tan turfÂsometimes with orange/brown margins) the pathogens are not closely related and they have different temperature requirements for infection. Infection by the gray snow mold pathogen occurs within a narrow range of cold temperatures (32 Â 36 degrees Fahrenheit). The insulating effect of snow cover offers extended periods when such temperatures are maintained at the turf surface. Gray snow mold is not common in Indiana, but I have found plenty of it where snow piles have remained all winter. The gray snow mold pathogen produces survival structures called sclerotia that are about the size of a period printed on this page. Pink snow mold is much more common in the lower Midwest because infection occurs under a wide range of temperatures (32F Â 50F). Symptoms that develop after snow melts, during cold wet weather in spring are attributed to the Microdochium patch phase of the disease. The pathogen produces spores (called conidia) at the edge of circular patches. The conidia may be washed down slope to create new infections, especially on putting greens. Juvenile (less than one year old) creeping bentgrass is unusually susceptible to snow mold damage. At this time of year, controlling gray snow mold is all about hastening recovery of the patches. Because of the narrow range of temperatures required for infection, the disease will not spread any more this year. Disturbing (raking) the matted turf and perhaps a light application of N will accelerate turf growth as temperatures rise and mitigate the effects of the disease. We treat pink snow mold differently because it remains a threat through April and May. I do not think fungicides are warranted for fairways, but I would consider an application on tees and putting greens if numerous patches developed over the winter. Turf within the patches are thinned by disease progress and therefore are vulnerable to colonization by Poa annua. It is likely that only a contact fungicide (chlorothalonil) will limit spread while turf remains dormant. Once turf is actively growing, a penetrant fungicide (such as a DMI) may provide more effective control. For more details about snow mold diseases check out our Turfgrass Disease Profiles on the Turf Program Website--- www.agry.purdue.edu/turf/pubs/index.htm Rick Latin, Turfgrass Pathologist

sure looks nasty. This is from the Purdue U site. Snow Molds Two types of snow molds, gray snow mold and pink snow mold, are recognized on turf grass species. They are caused by different pathogens but often occur under the same environmental conditions. Gray snow mold is first noticeable in early spring, after snow melt is complete. It commonly occurs in areas where snow accumulation is the greatest, e.g. along driveways and in areas where drifts develop. It is caused by a fungus that inhabits most soils. The pathogen becomes active at cold temperatures; only under snow cover when soil is not frozen. Special structures are produced by the fungus to ensure its survival during summer months. Turf affected by gray snow mold has a matted, bleached, gray-white appearance. In most cases, infected grass blades are killed, but crowns and roots usually survive. Pink snow mold (also called Fusarium patch) also is caused by a pathogen that inhabits midwestern soils. Snow cover is not required for the development of pink snow mold. The pathogen may also be active during cool (40º - 50º F) wet weather in spring and fall. In recent years in Indiana, pink snow mold outbreaks occured as late as mid-June. The fungus is able to survive periods of summer heat and drought as mycelium and dormant spores in the soil. Under favorable conditions, growth of the fungus on grass blades results in a pink cast to affected areas (hence the name pink snow mold). The patches of affected turf become brown or tan as warm dry weather returns. Like gray snow mold, pink snow mold usually kills leaf blades only. However, under especially severe conditions, crowns and roots may be severely damaged or killed. Management options for midwestern lawns are similar for both gray and pink snow mold. Cultivars of perennial ryegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, and tall fescue that exhibit any resistance to snow mold infection are not available. Also, chemical control is neither practical nor necessary. Serious snow mold problems can be minimized by mowing turf at the recommended heights well into the fall to avoid the exposure of long, lush turf to disease favorable conditions. Eliminating snow piles or accumulations that prolong the duration of snow cover in problem areas will help reduce the snow mold threat. Other practices will help reduce snow mold injury to lawns include improving drainage to eliminate wet pockets within the stand, and lightly raking affected areas in the spring to break up and dry out the matted grass. Reseeding may be necessary if infected areas do not recover by early May.

You aren't in an area where snow mold is typically a problem, so I wouldn't be too worried. Still, if your grass is flopping over, you can lower the mower one notch and then mow in the opposite direction. Once the grass is more mature, it should have no problem standing up to the highest setting on your mower.