So in the training of the water sprouts, do I treat it like a large bonzai, and weight or tie down the sprouts as the grow? Any branches that don't now bud and start growing, shall I remove them as summer progresses, or just leave them till next fall? My soil is Georiga Red clay, a compaction problem would be an understatement, as to uncompacting it I don't see how it could be done with an established tree, if It was ruined by me, and doesn't turn around in a couple years, I'll remove it and plant some more in better locations, at that point, I'll assume I could fix the compaction problem via tilling a large area prior to planting?

Hi Ed- I will lend some experience to my 4-1 apple. Last year my 4-1 looked like this on the main scaffold of all the 4 types. It was almost like the tree was damaged somehow but the ends were just like your tree and leafed out properly. I had probably a foot of just branch with no leafing. I waited until late November and cut them back quite substantially and it leafed out properly, flowered and now has apples. So, I would probably just let it go until dormant, then cut. It worked for me. With a tree that young its really about the root development and removing 30% of the leaves can't help early summer.

2 things here: First not what you asked: You need to prune the main trees. Rule of thumb is that on each branch cut off 1/3 of each years new growth. You do this before the next years buds open. (find out when is best in your areas I'm in Iowa) you can see where each year starts by what looks likes a junction, or some might compare it to how the skin looks on your knuckles. I won't go into the the why's and ect of pruning in this thread. You have some time to read up on that. But read here not the web in general. Here is what you 'can' do on the suckers. Wait until pruning time, then take your time in getting those removed, dig around them with your fingers and see how much root you can get with it without scratching the main trunk or a large root . cut those off 4" above the ground line and replant them in a pot or in the ground. It will need very damp soil to start, but don't let it be waterlogged, that will drown it. So if you get one or more to retake you can bud graft in the fall from your trees or other apple tree in your area. None of this is complicated and you have time to get your mind around it.

Well, much to my surprise, some of the grafts that I put on last year grew fruit spurs, and flowered this spring. Some others grew longer, with no spurs. Maybe those were what the buds were intended for all along, and they just now came out. Anyways, a few flowers on last year's grafts is interesting. This year's grafts have started to really take off. I think I did a much better job of it this year than last. I have a few more scions on the way, so I hope to get those on this weekend, and harvest a few apples in a few years. This winter, I'll try to bring this tree back down to size. BTW - it must've overproduced year before last, then been stunted last year. This year, it is totally covered in flowers. If those turn to apples, I'll have to do a lot of thinning. Fun stuff - thanks for the help everyone.