What is 5:1:1 soil mix?
Lamora
12 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (12)
Lamora
12 years agorina_Ontario,Canada 5a
12 years agoRelated Discussions
A question for Al about the peat soil 5.1.1 mix
Comments (4)Thanks, Mike. I hope '09 treats you well, too. "If I decided to use the 5.1.1 soil mix of bark and peat for my Palms, would I need to add any additives such as gypsum or other if I was going to fertilze my Palms with Foiliage Pro? Does this contain all the nutrients needed to not have to fiddle with my mix?" Yes - on it's face, from a nutritive perspective it would seem that because the Foliage-Pro (FP)contains Ca and Mg, none would be necessary, but we need to take into account the low pH of the soil if we don't lime. Until the pH equalizes at around 6.2, most of the Ca in the FP will be what is called reactive. This means that most of the Ca will be used in neutralizing the acidity of the soil. AFTER the soil pH equalizes, the Ca added in fertilizers (or the excess from liming) will become residual and more readily available. That's why, even though FP contains Ca, we still need to lime if we want to guarantee enough availability to prevent a deficiency. In the gritty mix, the pH will be higher, closer to 6.0 before liming, so it's not as important; and the higher pH is why I prefer gypsum to lime in the gritty mix. Pick a fertilizer with approximately a 3:1:3 NPK ratio, or mix in 1 tbsp of potash per gallon of soil when you make it and use a 3:1:2 ratio blend (12-4-8, 24-8-16, 9-3-6 are all 3:1:2 ratios). You can also supplement the 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers with a little extra 0-0-3 ProTeKt for the added K. Recently, the move has been to use the higher potassium fertilizers for palms. A 15-5-15 blend would be ideal (which is why I suggested the potash or ProTeKt). The company "Scotts" has recently released what should be an ideal containerized palm fertilizer with micronutrients, + magnesium and calcium, if you can find it. Al...See MoreWhat is 5:1:1 soil mix?
Comments (5)For indoor plants you may also want to explore the "gritty" mix, again found in that thread. You can also make hybrid type mixes that take concepts from both. Keep one very important thing in mind when you are reading through the thread. The "recipes" are guidelines and are not written in stone. Make sure to try to understand what each component brings to the table, not just what brand of this or type of that. You will find that there are many different ways to customize either the 5-1-1 or the gritty to fit your needs. If you can understand the concept, you will have alot better chance of success, and alot more options when your out hunting for the more elusive materials required. Have fun with it!! PJ...See MoreLarge-scale growing of container basil: potting soil vs 5-1-1 mix
Comments (10)This is why the ReptiBark is such a good bet for my application... because it breaks down less quickly, I can go 2 or 3 years without having to re-pot... or with adding a top-dressing only. I don't have to worry that the ReptiBark will decompose right away. I find that if I soak the ReptiBark overnight before using any in a mix, it's much less likely to become hydrophobic. Plus, my pots aren't drying out that quickly... they're indoor, out of direct sun and any wind, as opposed to outdoor containers and the conditions there. Honestly, I haven't had any issues with the small bags, as used for my own applications. When I know a pot will spend time outdoors, I use a different bark in a medium closer to the 511. I found a few bags of some pine mulch at Lowe's or somewhere like that... no idea on brand names or anything... but it appeared a little darker in color, smaller in size, and perfect for using in a 511 type mix. This past spring, we actually added a bunch of composted wood chip mulch to our raised beds and even turned a bunch into the garden for aeration and whatnot... so far, so good! The basic concept is working well for us!...See More5-1-1 Mix and handling 2 dissimilar soils in one pot
Comments (3)Dee, I think you may be misunderstanding a couple things about 5:1:1. The 5:1:1 doesn't *need* to dry out in order to have oxygen...that's the whole point. The particles are coarse enough that there's always space for air to diffuse into the soil. In addition, the bottom of the pot will not be saturated with water (or at least very minimally so), as is common with retail potting soils. So don't worry too much about watering every day - if the root ball is dry, you need to water. Unless the root ball is staying dry even when you *do* water, a potting mix that quickly drains is rarely a bad thing. How did you remove the old potting mix? The most common way is to thoroughly soak the root ball in water, and then use a stream of water to forcefully rinse it away, perhaps with the aid of a bent fork or screwdriver (root hook). What I've learned from this forum is that you don't need to be particularly gentle, and that for most kinds of plants, heavily pruning old, woody roots is very good for their long term health. However, in the very short term, heavy root pruning can cause problems for the plant in getting enough water to the leaves to maintain turgidity. Water is moving out of the leaves into the air faster than the roots can supply it. When leaves are wilted, they can't photosynthesize. As I understand it, for woody plants, pruning the top growth to "match" the roots is not as important as commonly thought. But for softer plants like many houseplants, leaving all of the top growth can make it impossible for roots to supply enough water right after repotting. This is especially true because humidity is usually relatively low indoors. You can help your plant out by keeping it in the shade until it recovers, removing the largest, oldest leaves, and providing it with high humidity just until it is no longer wilting. Humidity can be increased by using a "humidity tent". You can make a simple one using any kind of boxy frame with clear plastic or saran wrap all around it. If you already have a large bell jar or terrarium, that's essentially perfect. You'll be delighted at how quickly this works! Misting and using a humidity "tray" (water and pebbles underneath the plant) is generally a useless gesture, as it has no significant effect on the humidity level. Do NOT put a plant that has a humidity tent in full sun, as it will "cook" the plant. A struggling new transplant should be in the shade anyway. Also, resist the urge to fertilize before the plant has had a chance to recover. Good luck!...See Moretropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
12 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
12 years agostonesriver
12 years agoLamora
12 years agotropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
12 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
12 years agoLamora
12 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
12 years agobirdsnblooms
12 years ago
Related Stories
GARDENING GUIDES5 Prairie Wildflowers That Can Heal Your Soil
Get free, organic soil fertilizer with nitrogen-pumping plants that draw pollinators too
Full StoryLANDSCAPE DESIGNHow to Shape a Rain Garden and Create the Right Soil for It
Learn how to grade, lay out and amend the soil in your rain garden to support your plants
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESGardening Solutions for Heavy Clay Soils
What’s a gardener to do with soil that’s easily compacted and has poor drainage? Find out here
Full StoryFARM YOUR YARDHow to Get Good Soil for Your Edible Garden
The nutrients in your soil feed the plants that feed you. Here are tips on getting it right — just in time for planting season
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESHow to Stop Worrying and Start Loving Clay Soil
Clay has many more benefits than you might imagine
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESHouzz TV: Make a Worm Bin for Rich Soil and Happy Plants
A worm-powered compost bin that can fit under a sink turns food scraps into a powerful amendment for your garden. Here’s how to make one
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDES10 Solutions for Soggy Soil
If a too-wet garden is raining on your parade, try these water-loving plants and other ideas for handling all of that H2O
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESThe Poop Scoop: Enrich Your Soil With Good Old Manure
Get over the ick factor already — this natural super-ingredient for soil has so many benefits, you'll wonder why you ever went chemical
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESHow to Pick a Mulch — and Why Your Soil Wants It
There's more to topdressing than shredded wood. Learn about mulch types, costs and design considerations here
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESGet the Dirt on Your Garden’s Soil
Understand how your soil supports your plants so you can ensure your garden’s success
Full Story
LamoraOriginal Author