It sounds like you grew a bantam type corn so the ears wouldn't be huge...You should know by the package a days to maturity so just figure from around the date of your first usual frost and go from there...its a guesstimate at any rate so I say go for it...

It might work, most people stagger their plantings for longer harvest seasons.

Robert, I was keeping an eye on the radar and wondering if the rain was hitting your place. I haven't been overly worried about rain as we had only a 30% chance.....overnight they updated my 30% to an 80% chance, and we have light rain already this morning. By late yesterday I could l tell the yard and gravel driveway had begun to dry up some, so rain wasn't on my wish list for today. Usually my raised beds drain well enough. In 2009, after that almost 13" of rain in one day followed by another 9" over the next 6 weeks even the raised beds suffered, so I bought those round cardboard tubes you use to pour concrete piers and Tim cut them into one-foot lengths. I put those on top of the raised beds, filled them with purchased soil-less mix and planted the last of my tomato and pepper plants into those. As it turned out, most of the tomato and pepper plants in the raised beds made it just fine, but there were a lot of disease issues in that wet year so I was glad I'd planted the rest of the plants, even though they went into the ground late. I think my onions had a lot of issues that year from extreme moisture, but I haven't had a bad onion year since then. Bon, If your rain continues, you always could rake the grade level soil up into mounds to plant most things. Raised beds don't have to be formal raised beds with wooden or stone edging----even soil mounded up casually above grade level works just fine. If you get perpetual hard rain, the mounded beds might erode a little, but you can rerake the soil up onto the mounds after the rain stops, or mulch the sides of the mounded beds to help slow down erosion. Luvabasil, There are different ways to fix what is wrong, none of them easy and some of them no organic. For the quickest fix, i.e., to ensure a good crop this year, buy a high nitrogen lawn fertilizer and be extra careful to ensure you get fertilizer only as a "weed and feed" product contains herbicide that could kill your garden. For your specific situation, I'd get the highest-nitrogen (within reason) lawn fertilizer I could find----something with the nitrogen number in the upper 20s or low 30s. You'll have to add it to the soil carefully if your plants already are in the ground. I'd probably use a trowel to make a trench the Dixondale way and put the high-nitrogen lawn fertilizer in the trench. I am not sure how quickly that high-nitro fertilizer will wash out of sandy soil but it might last the whole onion-growing season. Or, you might have to add more to the trench a month or two from now. For a more long term fix, there's two main ways---the orthodox and standard recommended method and a handful of less orthodox but equally effective alternative methods. The more orthodox and recommended method would be continually adding tons and tons of organic matter to your soil. If I had your soil and this was the method I was going to take, I'd try to find a horse stable or a friendly horse ranch that would let me come muck out the stable stalls so I could carry off the bedding (urine-soaked, so some nitrogen there on the bedding) and cow manure. I'd pile it up all summer long to decompose and add it in the fall to the whole garden. Or, if there's not enough, I'd put it specifically where I wanted to grow onions the following year. Please understand that this process never ends. Because all organic matter breaks down (and extremely rapidly in our hot climate), you never really reach a point where you have enough, so you always have to add more. In the absence of a source for horse manure/bedding, I'd purchase cow manure or rabbit manure if I could find it, but wouldn't use it until testing it first for the herbicide carryover that gives us what is commonly referred to as "killer compost". Testing would take only a couple of weeks. Then, I'd add it to the soil. You also could add compost (as much as you can make or buy) or soil conditioner (the one I buy at Home Depot is merely a mix of humus and small bits of pine bark fines). Sandy soil like yours always will drain too quickly but by adding organic matter to it, you can improve it a great deal. Now for a couple of unorthodox methods: hugelkultur piles or merely adding bags of mulch to your soil with extra nitrogen to offset what the wood uses up as it decomposes or growing in containers. Using Mulch "Incorrectly". When improving our dense red clay (so dense that it broke every shovel and mattock we used, and rototillers would bounce off the surface without actually digging into the soil) in our early years here, I bought big huge bags of pine bark mulch. Some of the pieces of mulch were were as long and wide as a smartphone. I ignored the conventional wisdom that adding this sort of wood to my soil would tie up nitrogen as it decomposes (it does, but you add extra nitrogen to make up for it) and worked it into the soil. By the time I started adding this stuff, we'd been here improving the soil for at least 5 years so by then there had been enough improvement that we could rototill the mulch into the soil deeply with a powerful, rear-tine tiller. The difference in my crops over the next couple of years was impressive, so I kept adding wood chips for probably another 3 or 4 years. Due to the cost, not every part of the garden got new wood chips every year, but over a period of a few years, the whole thing got some wood chip improvement. The most shocking thing for me was how quickly all those big wood chips decomposed. Even the largest ones were gone within 3 years, and a lot of the little ones were gone after one year. That's okay because once they broke down, there was more humus and organic matter in the soil for plant roots to use. Using hugelkultur. Another method I really like but seldom practice here because of our huge resident population of venomous snakes is hugelkultur. This essentially consists of using everything from large pieces of wood (I like tree trunks that are partially decomposed) to smaller limbs and twigs to garden waste (weeds, prunings, dead plants, etc.) to straw, hay, bark chips, compost, manure, etc. to build a garden bed. One common way is to dig a slight depression in the soil that will catch and hold water beneath the hugelkultur pile and then to pile on all the other stuff, topping it off with a few inches of soil (you can use the soil you dug out to make the shallow depression). With some beds, I've used spoiled hay that was halfway decomposed to make the top layer. Because all that wood is going to decompose, you can build it a foot or two or more above ground level. Every year, you just add new layers of mulch on top or you can add a soil-compost mix if it decomposes too quickly and is becoming a sunken depression in the ground instead of a mound. How quickly a hugelkultur bed breaks down will vary depending on how decomposed your largest pieces of wood already were and on how much rain you have. Three years ago we build four 30' long huglekultur beds behind our barn, using old bales of hay as the "edging" of our large raised beds, and filling them in with wood (deadfall gathered from our woodland), compost, spent plant matter like you'd toss onto any compost pile, some cardboard to help attract earthworms, some soil-less mix from containers that were getting new, fresh, soil-less mix, and a big layer of spoiled hay on top. It has made lovely growing beds where I grow squash and pumpkins. I do have a snake problems in there, but I also have snake problems in all my other gardens so I just work carefully around the hugelkultur piles. One reason I grow pumpkins and squash in there is because they have to grow a long time before you harvest them, so I'm not in there every day like I would be with peas or beans, so that I go into that snake-infested area as little as possible. This winter and part of last year, I've been dragging tons of compost type junk to the old lily pond to help fill it in, which makes it a sort of sunken hugelkultur at this point. I need to continue adding more stuff on top of it to raise the height several more feet but I hope to be able to plant something there in that area sometime in April. In a few years after it really had decomposed and leveled out with the surrounding ground, I want to build a small, formal potager there in that spot because it is a prime backyard location. Hugelkultur is a very effective way to fix problem soils. Early in the process, all the wood products you use help hold moisture, so you can see why it would well work for your soil. Then, as the wood decomposes, it enriches the soil and turns sandy soil into sandy loam. I'll link something on how to build a hugelkultur bed. I built my very first hugelkultur bed in Fort Worth in the 1980s, although I never had heard of hugelkultur at that point. We had that black gumbo clay common there, and it drained slowly. We had cut down a tree that was getting too close to power lines and piled up the wood limbs, cut into pieces of a uniform length, behind the shed to decompose. One day, I hauled wheelbarrow load after wheelbarrow load of short logs (about 2' long) to my flower bed, dug a trench and lined them up vertically, packing soil into the trench to hold them upright. (Picture a row of big pencils sticking up out of the soil, those my "pencils" were as big around as my arm.) Then, I backfilled the area within that wood edging with partly decomposed wood, grass clippings and some of that black gumbo soil dug from another area where we were putting in a lily pond. Then, I planted and mulched. That bed was incredibly rich after a few years of all that wood decomposing. Once the vertical logs were mostly decomposed, I knocked them over onto the top of the bed one winter and built a stacked stone edging to replace them. I'd never even heard of hugelkultur and had no idea the method I was using was similar to hugelkultur, but that technique completely changed our back yard. With purchased soil, you often get junk soil that is no better than what you are starting out with at your place. I won't order soil unless I have seen it in person first, and the only way to get what I want is to order a mix that has compost in it. When I rebuilt my brother's Fort Worth garden, I ordered a mix that was 50% topsoil (which meant sand in that case) and 50% compost. It was pricey, but you wouldn't believe how well everything grew in it. I also make it clear to the soil company that I will refuse to accept delivery of the purchased soil mix after inspecting it (in the truck before it is dumped) if they send me junk sand that is not truly a topsoil/compost blend. It has been roughly 15 years since I bought a load of soil, preferring to just start out with the soil I have and improve it myself. To be honest, the best fix for crappy, fast-draining sand would be to add clay to it, but I don't know of any company that will sell you a dump truck load of clay. And, for it to work, you'd have to add both clay and organic matter at the same time because clay plus sand (without organic matter) = adobe. We have mostly clay in the areas where our house, outbuildings and garden are, and mostly sand in a couple of areas further away. I've always thought I'd have the most perfect soil around if I could take a gigantic mixer and mix together all the sand and clay. Containers are a good temporary option. If fixing the sand is going too slowly, you could raise onions in a cattle trough filled with a good soil-less mix. I raise gorgeous lettuce, carrots, radishes and other root and leaf crops in my cattle trough. It is one of the black rubber or plastic ones that sits above grade level on metal legs. The one I have is tall enough to keep rabbits from reaching my greens and to keep voles from getting my carrots. I also have had success with all kinds of root crops in large molasses feed tubs that my friend, Fred, gives me. Filling them with a soil-less mix is expensive, but I add wood, hugelkultur style, to the bottom half and put the soil-less mix on top of that wood. I've grown onions, leeks, potatoes, sweet potatoes, garlic, radishes and carrots in molasses feed tubs. You just need a deep enough layer of soil on top of the wood to allow the above to reach their maximum size before they hit the wood. If you don't have access to half-rotten deadfall wood, you can use fresh, green wood but it will tie up more nitrogen and take longer to break down. We happen to have a woodland area with lots of decaying wood, so I can haul it out of the woods in winter to add to beds as needed. I'd never even think of doing that in snake season, because the one year I tried it, I found plenty of snakes under and in the wood logs. Onions actually like growing in sandy soil, but the soil does have to be amended well enough to hold both water and fertilizer or the onions will look starved, as you say you've noticed, and won't achieve a really huge size unless you're getting incredibly high rainfall that keeps the sand moist all the time. While dealing with sandy soil is frustrating, once you've amended it for several years, you will change it from sand to sandy loam and your garden's performance and appearance will get better and better every year. With sand, I'm surprised you aren't overrun with gophers, moles and voles. Hope this helps. Dawn Hugelkultur How-To

There are quite a few different hardiness levels in all the onions, including the multipliers. See Heirloomonions.com. There seem to be quite a few heirloom type multipliers from across the south, with different names for them depending in part on where they come from. Here in Minnesota I have had good luck with both fall and spring planting of my yellow mulitpliers that I got from Jungs, some years ago. I have not had good enough multiplication on Kelly's to risk any fall planted yet. For me they are not as prolific as the smaller yellows, although significantly larger. IMO they don't keep quite as well and also take a bit longer to mature. Next fall I intend to cut back my garlics to a few faithful varieties and fall plant my yellow multipliers again, and if I get a decent enough return on the green mountains I have, I will fall plant some of those, too. I just put out my spring onion bulbs and sets yesterday and am still waiting on plants from dixondale. I do believe I shall have more than enough for daily consumption AND planting back plus quite a surplus, since I am by myself. We are quite a bit behind you, even if we are ahead of normal this year. In the past this would be about when the frost goes out of the ground, but this year that happened well over a month ago - not just early but way early!