Follow-up pic of how the whole plant looks (on right) and the other plant that also has some variegated leaves that is mixed in with it (on left). If you know what either plant is (and if I should pull) please let me know. They are both growing very fast.

We have these invasive flowering pear trees all around. They are like the borg. In riprarian areas, vacant lots and pastures. If it were my land and I didn't intend to farm it, I suppose I would plant the pasture with the most-agressive native tree I could find (at the lowest cost, in bulk) and try to crowd them out. Around here I'd try some weedy natives, like maybe Red Maple and kick in some desirables like Tulip Poplar, a few good pines, bald cypress in the wet spots and maybe a few "import" desirables like dawn redwood to dress it up -- my grandkids would have a forest! I've put some thought into this becuase a few lots I've contemplated buying are former pine plantations that were cut out, but the pines pioneer back in pretty quick. If you have a tractor and disk harrow to turn the soil, I don't know if tilling it up good during the driest/hottest part of the year would kill 'em off -- of course then you'd have to contend with erosion from any rain showers that popped up.

This looks like severe magnesium deficiency to me. The chlorosis begins at or near the leaf edge and progresses inward between the primary and secondary veins. Some green color remains along the main veins and the chlorotic area may become almost creamy-white. The remaining green tissue surrounding the main veins is best described as a "Christmas tree pattern." The chlorotic margins can become necrotic and turn brown as the deficiency becomes more advanced. You can use an all-purpose fertilizer that has magnesium as a micronutrient. Broadcast over the rootzone and water in well. Use the recommended amount from the product label - no more. Be sure to check your irrigation schedule. You want to water deeply, but not too often. Its possible that you are leaching away nutrients from the soil by watering too often. A good schedule would be to irrigate once every 10 days this time of year, increasing to once a week in summer. The trick is to apply a generous amount of water allowing the soil to dry a bit in-between. A tree the size of yours (I'm guessing it has a 6 foot wide canopy) would probably need about 25 gallons each time you water. Don't water right next to the trunk. Instead place your emitters at the edge of the branches - that's where the feeder roots are. Its also a good idea to remove the stake that is right next to the trunk. The tree doesn't need it and it can rub on the trunk and branches creating wounds. Good luck.

I guess it must depend on where it is planted and so on, because my EC's are not cane hardy at all above snow. In fact, last year when we had all those hard frosts with no snow on the ground, both of my EC's died right to the ground, but came back from the roots. However, I do agree with shazam that dieback in the spring really isn't a big deal; you'll get fast growth and tons of blooms regardless. I'm definitely going to start piling straw over the crowns of mine though, because they grow back MUCH faster in the spring if they don't have to come back from the roots. Just my experience. But yes, NAF...Emily Carr is my favorite! (so far, anyway)