There have been many discussions of bagging on this forum. Glenn and Michael have been involved with a lot of it. For Bart and Poaky, the gist of bagging is this: Apples generally need spraying for plum curculio before the bags are put on. Apples do best w/ cheap ziplock type plastic bags. The bags generally protect against fungus and insects once installed. As Planatus mentioned, stone fruits are more difficult to grow organically. They will rot inside plastic bags and several people have reported footies won't keep out lep moths under heavy pressure. Some have reported good luck keeping out leps w/ footies soaked in Surround. As w/ apples, peaches will need protection from spray before the bags are installed, if plum curc. is a problem. Scott has posted his success using cotton drawstring bags. The bags are thick enough to keep out leps, but thin enough to still allow the fruit to breathe, which helps with the rot problem. Some folks have reported problems w/ earwigs damaging fruit in the bags, but this doesn't appear to be a widespread issue. Pest pressure is very regional. As Planatus points out, pest pressue is light enough in some locales, cultural controls are all that are needed (pruning, thinning, sanitation, etc). Other areas, pest pressures are significant enough that they cause not only cosmetic damage, but will completely destroy the harvest. Wormy fruit tends to ripen prematurely, which can detract from the flavor. Additionally, worms significantly reduce the storage capability of the fruit. However, if all your getting is black spots on the fruit, your pest pressure is very light, and I wouldn't even bother w/ bagging. Black spots on peaches are probably bacterial spot, or a light case of scab.

Neem oil is an insecticide and I don't believe has any fungicidal properties. It is also quite expensive. I have never used it, and have no doubt is has some efficacy, but I suspect it isn't all that much. I would guess neem oil is rather effective at controlling mites, scale etc, but so is sulfur...it has the unique benefit of being a miticide as well as a fungicide. I very much doubt neem oil will do much for plum curculio...even most OTC insecticides are marginal at best in this regard. Orchard...the varieties you have growing are not very conducive to organic growing, save for the Montmorency. IMO, if organic growing was my aim I'd have chosen all DR varieties, but that's just me...others may disagree. I spray synthetics and even then all things being equal, I'll choose a DR variety any day...in fact, I'm willing to compromise on some things for DR. As far as brands go...no it doesn't matter. The only real issue with Sulfur is applying in temps over 80 degrees F, injury can result, but this is overblown as I've applied it many times in temps nearing 100 F with no issues. Also, there are a few apple varieties that supposedly can be injured by sulfur, but they are not the ones you have...I think Jonathan may be one of them. Concord grapes is listed too, but I've sprayed mine a million times with it and have seen no damage whatsoever. You can spray it anytime, but refer to the links others have provided for proper timing for maximum effectiveness. I'm fairly sure all organic spray programs will likely include or at least mention sulfur. Copper is another good option for fungicidal control and I've used it, but it's a bit less user friendly than sulfur, though more effective for some things. I wouldn't have the slightest recommendation for organic insecticides. Any of them that work at all usually have the same environmental issues as synthetics. You may already know this, but in case you don't: just because something is said to be "natural", does not mean it's safe. Arsenic is a naturally occurring compound, as is lead, cadmium and a whole host of dangerous stuff.

First of all, where do you live? Citrus trees are not commercially grown from seed. They are grafted onto rootstock that is known to be hardy. That root stock needs to be about 10 years old before you can get any fruit from the tree. That's why you see very small trees producing fruit in the nurseries. You could easily have oranges, tangerines, lemons, and grapefruit all growing on the same tree. I think finding organic root stock and organic grafts will be a challenge. I also think you're asking too much. Most people are happy to grow any plant using organic methods and materials. How much of an organic pedigree do you want? Is one generation good enough? Would two generations be better?

Now the experts are saying that the chemical that is used to treat seed corn against root worm is one of the big culprits in the killing off of the bees. When Bayer first came up with clothianidin they assured all the powers that be that there would be no harm to the bees because the seeds themselves would be coated and buried underground when planted. Ummmm Hmmmm. Except that it didn't work, the coating is rubbed off during shipment, packaging, planting, etc. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (May 30, 2003): "Clothianidin has the potential for toxic chronic exposure to honey bees, as well as other nontarget pollinators, through the translocation of clonianidin residue in nectar and pollen." [In the same report] "The fate and disposition of clothianidin in the environment suggest a compound that is a systemic insecticide that is persistent and mobile, stable to hydrolysis, and has potential to leach to ground water, as well as runoff to surface waters." "Clothianidin is highly toxic to honey bees on an acute contact basis (killing 50% of tested populations at greater than 389 mg/kg). It has the potential for toxic chronic exposure to honey bees, as well as other nontarget pollinators, through the translocation of clothianidin residues in nectar and pollen. In honey bees, the effects of this toxic chronic exposure may include lethal and/or sub-lethal effects in the larvae and reproductive effects in the queen." So, thanks to big agri-business and their "better living through chemicals" mind set, they are contributing to the death of the pollinators the farmers need for a crop. Anoither culprit could be high fructose corn syrup. Studies have shown that bees fed HFCS have compromised immune systems and cannot fight off infections. So, in the interest of saving money and using a cheaper alternative to feeding the bees in the winter time, HFCS instead of honey, it appears that beekeepers are contributing to the demise of their own hives. I've been doing my homework, you see, because Elery wants to put some bees out at the farm this year. Although I am allergic to bee stings and probably shouldn't actually handle the bees, I'm excited, but I want to make sure we do it right. Annie