LOL Paul..Ppl find/do the weirdest things to get high..I don't know if you heard of the case in Fl where teens were licking spit off a certain frog to get 'high.' LOL..I'd be interested to know what prompted them to lick spit off a frog to begin with... Actually, I knew someone who injested Coleus tea brewed from the seeds and NO, it wasn't me..heck no.. LOL.. There's an online site where ppl discuss things to take to find that perfect high..several ppl mentioned Coleus and a few other plants.. Jimsim Weed is another and very dangerous..too much and you're disabled for life..I don't understand why anyone would chance it.. Paul, you never found anything free??? I'm pretty sure everything's free...are we talking the same site? Someone from GW told me about freecycle..she got 2, 5-6' tall Ficus trees, and a Dieff..I think she found pots, too. I signed up mainly for plants/pots..so far, neither..only baby/kids clothes..Unless I start dressing my plants, it's useless..but you never know what you'll find.. Are you sure you're not thinking of Craigslist? Toni

Shipped plants often look droopy when you take them out of the box. Even so, they're not necessarily wilted. Things should soon look more normal.

The shape of the leaves says aglaonema and not pothos to me. They have similar care requirements. If the plant were mine, I'd cut off that piece you have in your hand with a few inches of the stem and try rooting it in water, and I'd take the crown of the plant out of the pot, trim off dead roots and stems, and repot in a smaller container with fresh soil. You might also check at the Garden Clinic and Houseplant Forums for more advice.

There's a good chance the plant will break back (back-bud) low on the stem or right at the soil line, but no guarantee. Odds are high the top is a goner, but it depends on whether or not it suffered serious chill injury, which can occur at temps well above freezing if the temperature drop is sudden enough. All you can do is wait. The leaves will all drop off, for sure. If you don't see new growth emerging from the stem within 2 months, scrap away some of the periderm (bark). If there is a green layer just below, wait awhile longer. It's critical that you do not over-water. The plant will be using almost NO water, so use a "tell" to "tell" you if the grow medium is moist deep in the pot - water only when the tell comes out nearly dry. Keep it warm and in good light. Withhold fertilizer until the plant is pushing new growth. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al