Asian & European pears on same tree?

10 years ago

Is there a reason that no one sells combo trees with both Asian and European pears?
I realize that there are pollination issues, but I've seen trees with 4 or 5 varieties, which would be enough to have two of each type. And the multi-grafted Asian and multi- European pear trees offered by Raintree are both grafted onto the same rootstock, so the reason isn't rootstock compatibility.
I'm down to the last two spots in my yard that I can place a tree without causing marital discord, and one of those needs to be a pollinizer for my plumcot, but I'd really like to squeeze in both Asian & Euro pears somehow.
If it's a reasonable idea, but not commercially available, I'm game for trying to make one myself, in which case, I would prefer to start with a tree instead of rootstock - can you graft Asian to European or vice versa?
Thanks!

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Comments (12)

fruitnut Z7 4500ft SW TX
10 years ago
I have a tree that started out as a Seckel pear. I grafted on Comice, Bosc, Housi, and Korean Giant. They all did fine for about 6-7 years with Bosc and Comice growing more. So the three Europeans seem compatible. But the last 3-4 years the Asian's, Housi and Korean Giant have been in decline. Each year they die back a little more. The Housi I don't care about losing. I've grafted KG on another that was 20th Century and it's growing like a weed.

So there maybe some delayed compatibility issues.

You don't need a pollinator for an Asian unless you love spending hrs thinning. Well actually even without a pollinator you will still spend hrs thinning.
ChristyRocNY
Original Author
10 years ago
Really? I've read that Shinseiki and Nijiseiki are partially self-fertile, so the two with "Century" in their English names, but only those two. And some places only say Shinseiki.

Is there any reason that they couldn't be grafted onto the same compatible rootstock? I think it was OHxF33 or 97.
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Wow that’s a lot of questions. I see where you all coming from and great points. Keep in mind I just started planting things so if I come off not knowing what I’m doing please don’t get offended. I know some people have great passions with plants and stuff I don’t want to offend anyone with my lack of knowledge or not having time to care or maintain it as much as one would like. I appreciate all your comments and expertise. Murky .Are the trees planted in the same soil as the rest of the yard?--Yes. What kind of soil is it?--Mostly clay. If you dig a hole in the soil and fill it with water does the water drain?--Yes. How do you determine when and how much to water them?--In the Texas summer I water them 2 times a week, once a week in spring, once every 2 weeks in fall and once a month in the winter. Are there other trees in the same conditions that are doing well? What kind?--No If those questions don't uncover anything I would think about how much sun they are getting ��" 6 hours. how they were planted (were they bare root or potted, what time of year, were the potted ones rootbound and if so what did you do at planting etc.) ��" They were all from potted, I planted them as they would be in a pot meaning a little above ground level with a little of the soil in the pot mixed in with the clay. Planted in spring about 3 years ago. Not sure if I understand what rootbound means but I did loosen up the roots as much as I can without hurting it before I planted. Other questions that come to mind are have you done a soil test? No Is somebody driving heavy equipment over the root zone?--No Do the leaves look healthy throughout the growing season?--Yes Have the trees been damaged?--No Have you observed pests or diseases taking a toll on them?--Not much Pest, if there’s any I would spray them with vinegar mixed with water (don’t ask why ��" wifey’s idea) . Were they allowed to fruit heavily very young?--I’m not sure how old the trees was when I bought it, but yes I did let the fruits grow. Also, my wife is into organic stuff so i don’t use chem fertilizer on the trees. I should have use organic fertilizer but I didn't put any. By the way, I think something is confused in the telling or in my reading with regard to the Asian pear/Fuji Apple. That sounds like two different trees. Did the tree have 2 tags - one of each? When it had fruit was it an apple or a pear? I don't know of an Asian pear named Fuji, and for all intents and purposes you cannot have the two on the same tree (while maybe technically possible you will never find such a tree for sale). ��"-there was one tag and it says Asian pear/Fuji apple. I asked the worker what it means by Asian pear/Fuji Apple, she said it was mixed between the two. When it fruited it kind of looks/tasted like an Asian pear, it’s hard to say because the fruit was too small. bhawkins Do the trees get any extra water during the year? I don’t know how to answer this question. How many hours of sun a day do they get?--6hours Did you plant with amendmends, like peat moss?--With some of the soil from the pot mixed in with clay. What's your soil like? Crumbly, or clay, or white rocks?-- clay, top 2 feet is sand mixed in with clay. Do you use mulch? Yes, but the grass has taken over and I left it since. I have a new born so I don't get to go online much so I would like to apologize in advanced for the delays on my replies.
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fruitnut Z7 4500ft SW TX
10 years ago
If grafted directly onto the rootstock then you should be able to put both on one tree. Mine were all grafted onto Seckel.

Maybe there are places that Asians don't set well period or don't set well without cross pollination. But it's not something I'd worry about.
Scott F Smith
10 years ago
For commercial production I expect its pollination. There is a much bigger chance a variety will lose its pollinator and make it useless.

I have a bunch of those I grafted myself. I have not had any problems with compatibility but some combos are supposed to be problematic. In particular Euro on Asian is more problematic than the other way. Most of mine are with both on rootstock but I also have some Asian on Euro that are doing well. One combo failed, Olympic on some Euro I don't remember now. I then put Olympic on a different Euro and its doing fine.

Scott
Charlie
10 years ago
I have a shinko and a hosui tree that are in their third year. I traded for some bartlett cuttings and am going to graft them onto both trees to have multiple varities on one tree. I am in zone 7, N. VA. I have decided to do the grafting in late April. The last freeze is expected tonight and the trees are leafing out and preparing to bloom. The cuttings are larger caliper than I would like, about 3/4 inch. What type of graft should I use since the cuttings will be larger than the recieving branch?
ChristyRocNY
Original Author
10 years ago
Would a Kieffer pear be a good choice to graft onto since it's already a cross between Asian & Euro?
Since I have no clue what I'm doing when it comes to grafting, it would be nice to start with something that would still be useful even if all the grafts fail!
ChristyRocNY
Original Author
10 years ago
Would a Kieffer pear be a good choice to graft onto since it's already a cross between Asian & Euro?
Since I have no clue what I'm doing when it comes to grafting, it would be nice to start with something that would still be useful even if all the grafts fail!
lucky_p
10 years ago
I have a youngish Keiffer that's become, over the years, 'foster home' to a dozen or more different pear varieties. Some Euro, some Asian, most EuroXsand pear hybrids (like Keiffer, Orient, etc.)

Pears are easy to graft. We sometime kid that you can just throw the scions at the tree, or just get them together in the same room - and you'll have success. That's a bit of an exaggeration, but not much of one.
Scott F Smith
10 years ago
Charlie that is Euro on asian so stands a greater chance of failure. I never tried one myself so can't add any personal experiences. For a large scion on smaller stock I use a simple wedge and align one side. Wrap very tightly.

Christy, Re: Kieffer I have heard it works reasonably well as a rootstock but if you are buying something you may as well get an Old Home rootstock or some other more standard one.

Scott
ChristyRocNY
Original Author
10 years ago
What does it mean for a graft to fail? Obviously, it could just not do anything, but several posts have talked about it seeming fine for years, then suddenly failing. Does the actual graft junction fail, or is the grafted portion of the tree just weaker and more prone to whatever diseases are floating around? Are there warning signs before that happens?

I've found a number of sources for rootstock, but scion wood seems to be expected to come from friends or trades. Are there reputable place you can just buy it?
Scott F Smith
10 years ago
The union literally fails: no more nutrients flow. It doesn't happen instantly, the tree at first is sickly then the top dies.

You can buy pear scions from Fedco and perhaps Maple Valley.

Scott
Paul Eckerson
3 years ago
I have grafted many Asain various on the invasive Bradford pear trees. Grafted 1 year old scion wood on 1 year old limbs. Pretty easy.

Asian & European pears on same tree?

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fruitnut Z7 4500ft SW TX

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Asian & European pears on same tree?

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