Hi Mike! I agree. And I think eradication methods were discussed nearly ad nauseum in the linked discussion. But if not, in addition to all that, I'm wondering if one could finagle a covering over the pot temporarily, until the larvae have all hatched and the adults are all dead. Maybe with paper and tape? Layer of gravel? Seems like preventing the adults from accessing the soil would put an end to it, especially in an office. I don't know how long it would take the adults to just die though... I hope you do look into the soil issue, Caitlin. In addition to being a haven for fungus gnats, having soggy, peaty soil for the roots of any plant is usually very offensive to them. Store-bought plants almost always come with this stuff in the pots, nothing you did wrong, but putting enough water to keep the gnat life cycle going could be a problem for the plant eventually. It's hard to be much more specific without a pic of it. Since this is in an office, I would probably go with the mosquito dunk water for the fastest possible remedy. You don't want your coworkers kicking this plant out of the office (and probably not welcoming anymore plants in its' place.) Are there other plants in the building?

I am gonna had my five cents worth. Until about five years ago I had no idea you could actually root a sago. But alas you live and learn or you live and remain stupid. I was working for a lady who wanted all the pups from the base and the trunk removed from her 3 foot trunked sago. So I went at it with a shovel. Some large pups over two foot of frond growth came away with a small amount of roots some the same size came away with just a piece of the base. all the pups on the trunk itself had of course no roots but these I had seen rooted before so I knew they would survive. I replanted the largest three pieces with partial roots in another bed for her. And Please leave the fronds attached until they yellow. A plant has to have chlorphyll and they have to photosynthesize, to do that they have to have foliage. So the three all grew new tops that same summer. I brought a massive car load of the remainder of pups etc home potted all of them they everyone rooted and survived. So yes cut off as low as possible without ruining the base of plant, You can cut the fronds half way back if they are in your way to get to base. I personally would say let them dry out one or two days in shade to form a callous which will help prevent rots or fungus. Then plant them where you want them, or pot them. Water only enough to keep moist not sloppy wet. If fronds do yellow then cut them off but do not despair sago's are some of the toughest plant I have ever encountered. Good luck. James Maloy

"I don't appreciate that you hijack a thread to air whatever ill feelings you harbor about past postings. " Then don't read it. There is a button on your "mouse" that you push if you want to read a post. If you don't want to read it, DON'T PUSH IT!!!! " Now, if you have some kind of scientific proof that the cycad special does not do as suggested, then by all means, provide that proof." PLEASE, PLEASE PLEASE, show me where I said it did not work. Don't worry, I'll wait. I never said it did not do what it was said to do. Perhaps instead of getting so mad while reading, you need to calmly step back and carefully read and take in the words that that are written. Because you are letting your anger read for you and NOT interpreting the words. I NEVER SAID IT DID NOT WORK! "Your first post was both libelous and defamatory. " WOW, thats kind of ironic because thats EXACTLY what your post is. I guess in your world it is ok for you make libelous and defamatory remarks, just as long as they are in response. I am a MODERATOR on another board and you are EXACTLY the type of person that I have to explain to that two wrongs don't make a right. "Your sole purpose posting on this thread was to malign someone else who hasn't even taken part in this particular conversation." NOOOOOO, my purpose on this thread is to let the public know of the dishonesty of the person that others have posted about ON THIS THREAD!! I feel that I would be cheating people by not letting them know that there is a dis honesty thing going on.

First off let me tell you that I have been dealing with Robert Chumley for almost 3 years now. There is NOBODY and I mean NOBODY that will treat you better on the price, or has more experience with the Taitungensis. He has grown literally MILLIONS of them. Now, my opinion on King vs Emperor. To me, there is no comparison. The Emperor is 100% a better cycad to have. It is REALLY puzzling to know why all the stores like Wal Mart, Home Depot, Lowe's, etc. continue to sell Kings, when Taitungensis are by far a better cycad. The Taitungensis grows much much faster. Mr. Chumley once told me that if you cut the leafs off a Taitungensis, new flush will occur around 23 days later. So if you were so inclined, you could get a good 1' growth out of one pretty darn quick. The Taitungensis is the fastest growing cycad in the world (althou my personal finding is the the Nova Wilailik is a very close second). The Taitungensis is also one the hardiest cycads. The leaves on a Taitungensis will continue to grow at it's lowest temps, where as a King's leafs will go doormant. The Taitungensis is also IMO a much prettier cycad than the King, With it's longer petiols.