Hello Milehigirl.

I'll take a stab at it- others may have better opinions.

I wouldn't try to save it unless I had some special attatchment to it, and even then I'd have my doubts. If the tree has a reputation for some special quality you might prune it this year to get fresh growth so that you can take scions from it next year. Those scions, grafted onto a young tree, would be my choice for preserving that tree.

Old trees have one specific characteristic that i think is important: they've stood the test of time. Since fireblight has killed many pears it's nice to have one that is apparently resistant. But getting that tree back into meaningful production is probably not a good use of your time.

The scions you ordered could also be grafted onto that young tree I'm suggesting. Contrary to some good advice on this board I keep my young pear as a central leader, as that's what my situation dictates, but if I could I think I'd prefer it as a vase. Starting with a young tree lets you make that decision. Now is a very good time to be finding that tree and getting a spot ready for it. Mine's a Gold Spice (small, tasty) on OHxF333. It's been healthy, and somewhat precocious. I have about ten varieties grafted to it now- Anjou, Clapps Favorite, Dana's Hovey, Flemish Beauty, Frost, Pezzuti's Pennsylvania Wonder, Warden Seckel, White Doyenne, Winter Nellis, and Ure.

Good luck,

M

That trunk is in no immanent danger; it probably split off a limb on that side and left exposed dead wood, but it is not rotting. The tree is getting good nutrients from the ground since the gash is vertical. At least that is how it looks in the picture. My guess is you have 25 years or more left there. I think you have a good idea of grafting another pear to it to see if you can get a crop. If you have a friend with a mature pear tree you can also bring over a blooming limb from their tree and stick it in water by the base to get you some pollen this year. I wouldn't try to do anything major to it, its too big to prune down to a more manageable size.

Scott

This year I would try the imported pollinizer to see if you can get a few pears to test for their quality. If the fruit is something special I would graft onto a new rootstock with the future removal of a tree too tall to pick, in favor of a new tree properly shaped and maintained at a height easily managed. Al

One of the reasons I have reservations about trying to keep that tree is that it appears to be too tall to be easy to maintain, and I didn't see any likely limbs to graft to. I like the idea of importing a pollinizer!

Heck- leave it there for a season or two AND go ahead and get a new tree ...

:-)M

Milehigh, whack it down for firewood. Its close to the house and shades prime growing area too much. Save scions to graft Grampa's tree onto another rootstock. My grandfather had an old Keifer and no one liked it except for canning. Everyone was afraid to walk under that tree in the fall when the pears were dropping. Does the tree bloom alot?

Okay, I think I'll work with it as best I can for a few years. It does have a lot of sentimental value to me. If you can imagine, as a little girl, I watched my grandpa baby that tree...and now look at it. The house had been rented out, but the renter said it bloomed every year. He didn't even know it was a pear tree!

I will also try to duplicate it. I ordered some pear rootstock so I will work on the other end and try to preserve it that way also.

It's still very sturdy. I guess I was hoping someone would tell me I could some how mend the trunk with bridge grafting.

Pears are so slow-growing that having such an established tree thrilled me at first. I bought a Burford pear last year and it only grew about 3 inches (if that!).

I've ordered scion of Comice, Magness, Warren, White Doyenne, Moonglow, Stacey, Grand Champion, Luscious, and Harrow Delight. Does anyone have an idea how long it will take for the new scion to bloom on this old tree?

Thank you for all your advice!

Mihi, how are you? Don't listen to anyone who would have you cut it down. Pear trees live practically forever (if they avoid fireblight). You can gradually bring down the height and graft 20 different varieties on it if you like and have a pear orchard on a single tree. Pears are slow on rootstocks that survive in your climate but grafts on that tree will bear fruit in a couple years. Not making use of this tree would be insane in my book. I have made use of such trees on dozens of sites.

I agree, don't cut this amazing tree down. I think it would be very challenging for anyone but a professional expert to get down to size however, its waaay up there.

Scott

Pears also take a long time to come into bearing. I've read up to 10 years if not more. I'd leave it, that is a piece of history.

>> I guess I was hoping someone would tell me I could some how mend the trunk with bridge grafting. Have not much knowledge on this but I would think on a old trunk it would not work very well?
Normally it's done vertically in younger trees, in your case it looks like a horizontal graft but I would not bother, sap is still going up.
I have a pear tree 25 years old with about 5 verities top grafted, you can do the same on this tree.
If you have no suitable branches.....I wouldn't goo heavier then thumb thickness, then prune back heavy, wait for the following
year and graft to the waterspouts,..normally this is what you get when the tree is healthy and when pruning back heavy.
But then...you have to be willing to climb ladder very often for many years.

>>Does anyone have an idea how long it will take for the new scion to bloom on this old tree? You can have fruit in second or third year.
I'm not sure, in the picture, do you have two trunks going up or one, looks like two and middle is splitting.
If that's the case I would take the uglier one out, sooner or later one will brake away anyway.
This tree might be a good practicing specimen and learning experience....have fun!

Konrad

milehigh, the limbs that were cut were leaning towards the house right. The tree is split in half, is there any rot or carpenter ants by the trunk. The tree is approximately forty feet tall. When you graft on some pollinators the high fruit will smash down on what or who? Who will clean up 300 pounds of pear mess, you said you were renting the house. Yellow jackets and varmits? Got any photos from different angles to post.

What's the point in having children if you can't get them to risk their lives for you when they're young adults.

Seriously, I climb trees like that one all the time- without rope- pear wood is amazing- just don't wander out far from the trunk and test as you go. 50 years old is a baby- I've worked on 60 ft 150 year old trees with rot everywhere but pushing lots of juvenile wood. If a tree is doing that you can do anything with it. Just bring it down about 10' a year and use a good Japanese pruning saw- say a Silky Gomtaro from AM Leonard.

harvestman, a pro would charge $1000 to take 10 ft off the top each time. I'd say do it if it was in an open field. But it is too close to a house that she rents out. Then there is the risk of the cut back tree dieing at any time. Preserve the tree by grafting it onto root stock along with a few others planted further away from the house. It is cheaper to cut it down than to maintain it.

Fortunately I found a man who can climb in the trees like a monkey. He works for the power company and he came and cut my trees that were close to the line. I have hired him to top my trees several times. He will have no problem getting up there and he doesn't charge much comparatively, but I'm not sure he would know how to trim it to promote new growth; he just usually takes trees down. I would have to give him very detailed instructions of what I want done, but I actually don't know myself. He's the one that removed the two large limbs that were dying.

Can someone refer me to a good book with detailed instructions on how to do this? I've found several websites that give general instructions on reviving an old tree, but nothing with lots and lots of pictures for a newbie.

To be honest the tree is invaluable to me and I will do whatever I can to preserve its life. I still would like to know if I could possibly bridge graft at an angle to try and repair the main trunk. I know sap flows upward, but not exact straight upward. At what angle could I try to bridge, and what's the longest length a bridge should be? I've thoroughly read The Grafter's Handbook, but cannot find these details.

>> He's the one that removed the two large limbs that were dying. dHm..he's the one who done it soooo ugly..no surprise, he only removes wood.

But now you still need someone who does your grafting high up on the ladder, then checking the graft, pruning etc.

Be prepared to climb for your fruits, my tree is not
even half the size.
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Really, getting some verities growing this far up is not a easy task, you also have to climb ladder picking fruits.
Perhaps leave the tree as is, just clean it up and enjoy the beauty of a ornamental tree.
I would also clean up the dead bark on the trunk, [beyond repair] and paint with a latex, perhaps gray for a color match.
Re - cut these ugly chop cuts.

Konrad

Hell, I put some grafts on a 60' wild pear tree after spending about 20 minutes removing the top 20 feet. In this case I only had to make a few cuts- the tree was sending up poles. I put the grafts on water sprouts within six feet of the ground and 2 years later we had pears. The work cost the man about $70, my hourly fee. He had a day of other work for me to do which consisted of grafting wild apple trees after butchering them the year before. He now has an entire orchard from trees that were worthless but hardy. The apples he planted on the site were destroyed by voles the first season. It is the most beautiful orchard you ever saw with an incredible view of nothing but widerness. Took 4 years to completely transform.

Hey MiHi!
This oughtta help pruning-wise since pears & apples have sorta similar growing habits. Besta luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: Pruning to restore an old neglected apple tree

windyfreezethaw, that is a great site. Thank you so much.

My scion arrived today. I've never grafted before so I'm a little nervous. I'd like to try Side Cleft Graft to make a branch lower on the trunk. Any opinions on where, or even if I should try this method?

Obviously I will have to trim what I will of the tree this year before I graft in order to protect the new grafts. Is it too early to start pruning?

A simple splice on a watersprout is my favorite for quickness but a cleft is fine. Just remember- cambium to cambium- line em up. Split the wood with a hammer and a screwdriver if you don't have a good graft tool. You can also use a very heavy knife and hammer. Pry the wood open with the screwdriver in the center so you can slip the scionwood on both sides all the way to the edge. Tightly wrap electric tape around the split branch right up to its end and slop your pruning compound on all exposed wood including the tips of the scions.

I'm sure you have clearer directions than this to work from
but the electric tape may not be suggested with that info and it works well. Eventually you can cut the tape with a single slice with a razor knife- let the tape peel off by itself.

Just to be clear, don't graft to a branch thats too big. The % takes there is low. If there is a watersprout that is reachable, that is perfect.

Scott

milehighgirl, an easier way to graft new scion branches onto the side of that big old pear tree.

Here is a link that might be useful: The Plugger® Grafting Bit

theaceofspades, Thank you! This looks too easy, way too easy. Does it really work?

I have one more question. I already bought Parafilm, but for this method I will need either Grafting Wax or Doc Farwell's Grafting Seal. Which is preferable?

milehighgirl, I've never used a Plugger. I'm pretty sure the all around cambium contact will heal over as long as it is completely sealed with grafting wax and the scion wrapped in Parafilm. I've seen a video of an oriental method of grafting varieties to asian pear trunks. A newly formed scion twig is cut from a large branch with a quarter size bark to insert up into a round slit on the tree trunk. Grafting wax sealed it over.

Here is a link that might be useful: Grafting with the Plugger

Anyone used this thing- looks like Cambium contact is a bit limited but if it works it would be fantastic.

Well, the first year pruning is done. We took off a good portion of the top and thinned according to the directions on how to restore a tree in "Ecological Fruit Production in the North". I kept reminding myself that we were not killing the tree, but boy it seemed harsh.

I have one major concern now. I am worried about sun-scald damage to the bark that is now exposed to the sun. Should I paint the whole tree white for the first year? The Mile-High sun can be brutal, and if this were done to a Maple it would surely die a slow death. This poor pear already has enough bark damage.

So, now what?

Okay, another year and now what? We took off a lot of the tree, but I was afraid to actually top the tree. It put out a lot of sprouts low on the south side of the trunk and of course a lot at the top. The four grafts that I tried with the Plugger grafting drill bit did not take. They are painted with grafting wax. I was able to do three successful chip bud grafts on a few of the lower sprouts so I'll leave those no matter what, just for pollination.

We had a near catastrophe as the wind almost broke off the lowest large branch (facing right on the top picture). Fortunately there was someone who used to work at the Forestry Dept. just waiting for my husband to arrive at The Big Box. He knew exactly what size bolts and washers to use and we were able to re-attach the limb before it completely broke off. It was swaying back and forth when we arrived!

What do we do this year?

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Boy! That tree is just not going to give up, and that's a good thing.

Thanks for the update.

:-)M

I'm really in need of some advice here. I've heard that topping a tree will kill it, but I don't see how to bring it down further without cutting the main trunk.

Someone in the know here?

I know how I would do it as I am used to pruning and not afraid to cut wood but I have never restored a tree before. If a real pro like harvestman or Jellyman does not chime in I will give my unprofessional advice.

I would not worry about this tree dieing. Your tree is very vigorous producing lots of new wood from which to chose new healthy scaffold branches from.

Well...she is a pretty ugly one but,...she is fighting back and wants to
live, I would give it a chance but would cut that sucker down to about
a meter high, where a couple of branches grow out on the side, cut
about a 45 degree for good water run off and paint Dr. Farwell's heal
and seal. Doing so, you will end up with a descant look in a couple
of years, and you can graft on a branch or two.
Konrad

I want everyone on GardenWeb to do a little dance with me. I FINALLY have pears on my tree. I bought a Moonglow at Costco two years ago and planted it near the mature tree. The little thing bloomed this spring, plus a hive of bees decided to make a home on a dying green ash on the property. I have waited for the June drop, and this time they did not all drop off.

I am so happy. Thank you everyone for your advice.

Must I thin these beauties? Does anyone have a guess as to what kind of pears these are?

I've grafted onto the side of a pear, but didn't use a wood anchor'point'. I basically slid a tapered branch in t-bud fashion, magnum sized. It's taken. I've pruned the 3" stub back to one bud. How sturdy will this branch be? Have the tissues assimilated or can I expect the scion to snap of when i have lots of pears? I am revisited by the 'tree snapped at scion' site. I see no one has posted this as an approach so I have my concerns.