I don't know anything about bordeaux mixture except that it's not much used anymore- I sure know about your range of pests and the only reason I can think of you may be using it is an attempt to stop peach leaf curl for which some kind of copper would be better if you are intending to avoid man made compounds.

Dormant oil as it is now manufactured will be most affective well after bud-swell but before flowers open. Then can be used later after petal fall. Do you have some leftover Volk oil or something? Read the label and you can find your answer right there, probably.

I use copper hydroxide which can be sprayed with oil. I have not started to spray yet but will be doing so very soon, early flowers will be out in a week or two. You could probably put down the copper sulphate now and do the oil in two weeks. If it rains a lot you can shorten the two week interval. As hman mentions I would also think about why you are using the copper. For me I use it on apples for fireblight and on peaches for bacterial spot. The pears have not gotten copper because they have no fireblight problems. I don't have curl problems so I don't need it for that. If you don't have a disease from the previous year you are after, I would just skip the copper.

Scott

Thanks for the fast replies. Harvestman, I do have Volk oil and I will use that. I see you are I. The same zone and share my pain. Last year I watched my cherry blossoms wither and the few juicy cherries turn moldy with brown rot. My Mcintosh was covered with apples that got stung and fell off until none were left. I did manage to stop the leaf curl and aphids. Scott, I am also worried because this is the 3rd year for the peach and plum and last year they were hit with shothole and leaf curl . I'm trying my darndest to get some fruit this year. The pears were great though.

I don't have experience with Volk, although I suspect it's still fine to put it down. Oil is not the solution for your multiple problems. You need a spray program that will stop both fungus and the damaging insects that are causing your problems.

After spraying the copper hydroxide/oil combination, how long should you wait, if any, to spray Monterey Fungus Fighter for brown rot on blossoms. It is my understanding you would like to spray just prior to bloom for both. Or can you add the MFF with the kocide/oil spray?

Thanks.

MFF is compatible with both so you could add it.

Scott

My plan was to spray oil and copper at the suggest interval them proceed with the limited spray program using a multi purpose spray at delayed dormant, pink, petal fall, shuck split/ 1st cover and 2nd. The weather has confused me and the plants. I sprayed the oil and am gambling on the weather holding for the copper. If it doesn't, I'll go with multi spray and the fungonil at bloom.

Hman, you asked the guy if he had leftover Volk oil and then when he said yes and decided to use it you came back
and said that you have no experience with Volk and that Oil is not the solution to his multiple problems?

What would you suggest?

Oil is useful in a program to control mites and scale- two pests that often never show up in a home orchard. It is of no use against scab, cedar apple rust, plum curculio, and codling moth- the four main enemies of orchards east of the Mis. river.

In the northeast, the two most important sprays are at petal fall and 10 to 14 days later and you need to put down something like Triazide (Ortho, "Once and Done") for the insects and, for many types of apples, Immunox for the fungus. Alternatively you can use a more difficult and less affective organic schedule which would include Surround maybe sulfur and a sticker and a couple of extra sprays.

OK, I did more reading here in the forum and I understand where harvestman is coming from with the triazicide and immunox - and I have an inkling as to why I failed to tame the blossom & brown rot on my cherries and lost all the apples on my mac when I sprayed with the Bonide MPS. So as a follow-up question, will spraying the above at petal fall keep the brown rot off of my cherries too or should I also hit it with immunox at bloom? P.S. my pear tree is almost at green tip, the peach has some buds showing pink (but they are really small)and some still dormant, plums are the same as the peaches, cherry buds are swollen not showing green, and applebuds are swelling.

In the deep South the question of needing to spray is not an issue, you have to spray.

Virgina Tech rates coppers and a Bordeaux mixture as only good for peach leaf curl and nothing else.

I notice people use Cooper as a generic term to cover several compounds that have different restrictions on use and mixing. It is sure confusing to keep up with all the chemicals.

I found a couple references to not use Captan within 7 days of an oil spray. The time between Lime Sulfur Sprays and oil is 21 days. That is what I go by.

Here is a link that might be useful: Georgia Home Orchard